An 18 Crash Course Lesson in Mexican Food: La Casita Mexicana

I would say it was serendipity that day at the Gold Standard.

Those two chef’s I always saw on that Univision morning show “Despierta America” my mom watched everyday were there, and I, forced myself to introduce myself to them: Ramiro ArvizU and Jaime Martin Del Campo of La Casita Mexicana. It was long overdue. They were sampling some Ceviche Verde (Green) that I initially thought to be just a chef-ed up version of the classic Tomato-Onion-Lime Mexican Seafood classic. Tasting it, the unique, bitter taste of Epazote, known as the "Skunk Plant" back in Aztec time stood out immediately. The type of fish used that day was the signature wide-flaked flesh of Bacalao (Cod), a saltwater fish that is also readily available in the Southeast Coastal regions. Hmmm…






Going up to them, they immediately informed me it was a version seen among some provinces around Veracruz where Epazote is still used as well as Cilantro. This sparked a rather long, detailed conversation that only two passionate chefs and a self-discovering food writer could keep up with. Not just about food, but…authentic food from Mexico. The other dishes that never made it to the Mexican Chain Menu quo of Fajita platters, ‘hard shell’ Taco’s & ‘Wet’ Burritos a’ plenty.

My roots, my past, my history, a sacred bond I’ve recently discovered in my first trip to my parents state of Zacatecas, Mexico…was not this. This unfortunate truth was equally—if not even more—mourned by them. That was it. Something needed to be done to clear the greasy, cheap, easily prepared confusion that is sadly the bar for most Mexican food in the U.S, yes...even L.A. So, I rallied the diligent few who spun their own web, straying from the allotted venting of Yelp and Chowhound: the Los Angeles Food Bloggers (only ones that make it to my links on lower right), they have become a foodie family for me and I felt they needed to know what really was up.

An 18 course learning experience was to be had on Wednesday March 25, 2009 at La Casita Mexicana. This was that dinner.

We started off with a showcasing of many traditional Mexican foodstuffs.
Black Corn is grown in only select regions in Mexico because it is a lot harder to maintain. Their kernels are almost as starchy as potato when cooked.





Preserving foods is an Art in Mexico that is practiced with just about any perishable, in an attempt to let less go to waste. Even making jams with savory items like Cactus paddles and Chayote a water-fleshed gourd vegetable apparent in more Central states.





Of course, a table side showing of old fashioned Salsa making was thrown in there somewhere...Lava Rock Molcajete and good 'ol Elbow grease, no blender/food processor, keeping it old school.





They busted out with 3 different kinds.
Salsa de Jitomate con Chile Serrano y Cilantro MEXICANO (Tomato, chile, Mexican Cilantro; taste different than Domestic Cilantro, less strong)
Salsa de Tomatillo de Milpa Con Semillas de Calabaza y Chiles de Arbol Tostados (Wild Foraged Tomatillos, Pumpkin Seeds and Toasted Tree Chile)
Salsa Cruda de Tomatillo y Hoja Santa (Raw Tomatillo with Hoja Santa; tart, acidic and spicy)

Now, it's time for the main lesson: 18 courses, covering the barren desert bounty, the humid coastal concoctions to the ways of the tropical wetland--Mexican gastronomy at it's tribal finest.

1st Course:
Sopa de Pescado con Hoja Santa y Chile Jalapeños (Fish Soup with Hoja Santa Leaf and Chile Jalapeños)





Hoja Santa is a broad leaf used as an Herb mostly Oaxacan dishes, the flavor and smell is reminiscent of root beer. Some diners were suprised how the soup had some Tom Yum qualities to it, this is how it is when prepared good, that's all.

2nd Course: Chile Jalapeños Rellenos de Atun (Tuna Stuffed Jalapeños)





Tuna has made it's way into Mexican Culture. Seen more in coastal states like Veracruz. These are not as spicy as you would think.

3rd Course: Queso Azteca (4 different Cow cheeses, blended with Epazote, Chiles Poblanos and little strips of Cactus, Nopalitos. This is then wrapped with a Banana Leaf and Grilled on open flame)





Kind of like a deconstructed, really good Quesadilla

4th Course: Tamalitos de Huitlacoche (Corn Fungus Tamales)





Seasonal, mostly seen during May. The jet-black fungus that grows on few, lucky Ears of Corn are prized in Mexico. Usually pricey and used in Quesadillas in Central Metropolitan street food.


5th Course: Enchiladas de Pollo con Tres Moles (Poblano, Pepian Verde y Rojo)





Not just beautiful looking. Each sauce bringing it's own essence from different regions of Mexico. Sweet Poblano from Puebla, nutty Pumpkin Seed-intensive Pepian Verde from Central States, and Spicy Rojo from Southern Central.

6th Course: Enchiladas Rojas de Queso Cotija from Michoacan (Enchiladas with Mexican Dry Cheese in style of Michoacan)





Keeping the age-old tradition of lightly dipping the tortillas in hot oil before Chile makes layers of flavor.

7th Course: Mole de Almendras con Carne de Puerco (Almond Mole with Pork)





This protein is choice all around the Motherland but in combination with Mole not so much, popular in Jalisco.

8th Course: Mole Blanco (White Mole)





This Mole is an antique recipe found in Tlaxcala with touches by Jaime y Ramiro. It is believed to have it's origins by abiding to a Brides demand of not wanting to get dirty on her Wedding day. Made with same ingredients but just their white counterparts: White Chocolate, White Raisins, White Chiles etc..

9th Course: Puerco Adobado (Pork in Spice-Intensive Red Sauce)





Sweet and Spicy Sauce...Mexican Style. Jaime and Ramiro said this was from a recipe some Aunt had or something.

10th Course: Cochinita Pibil from El Yucatan (Pork Roasted in Plantain Leaf with Achiote Spice, spicy Habanero Pepper and Bitter Orange fruit)

I know it was floating around somewhere in the Table, didn't get a chance to take a photo.

Naranja Agria are excruciatingly hard to find in L.A, needing almost entirely sub-tropical climate, it is used in many Latin American cuisines. It has a special kind of puckering tartness to it found in no other citrus fruit. I think they found someone who grows it in their backyard recently...

11th Course: Pescado en Salsa de Tamarindo con Chile de Arbol (Fish with Tamarind-Chile Sauce)






Tamarindo pods are peeled and made into candy, drinks, topping for Raspados (Mexican Shaved Ice). Here, they dug for this recipe incorporating pods freshly imported from Nayarit. The sauce was tart and spicy, excellent for fish.
12th Course: Cecina al chipotle (Dry-Cured Beef cooked and slathered with smoked Chipotle Chile)





Beef dish hailing from Veracruz region to dyspel belief that all of their food is Seafood, it's one of the few dishes where Chipotle Peppers as well as Olive Oil is used in cooking, Olive oil goes for entire region's cooking.

13th Course: Chiles en Nogada (No Translation)





This is probably Jaime and Ramiro's most notorious dish. Cooking the pepper to crunchy perfection, stuffing it with ground pork mixture involving Dulce de Biznaga (Crystallized Cactus), topping it all with a Pueblan cream sauce made from Pecans, and finally sprinkling a few fresh Pomegranate seeds on top.

Dulce de Biznaga is becoming harder and harder to find, making it a lot more expensive where ever they do have it. It tastes faintfully herbal, also used in Mexican desserts.






14th Course: Churros Rellenos de Cajeta (Caramel-Stuffed Churros)





Caramel is universally loved all through out Mexico, both it's Goat's and Cow's Milk ones (probably equal). Rich and when done good, not cloying. Churros are superb with this.

15th Course: Flan de Calabaza de Castilla (Domesticated Pumpkin Flan)





Jaime and Ramiro made a huge sheet of Flan for the whole table! Pumpkin sweets are hugely popular all through out Mexico. In this Flan, it just added another realm of silkiness.

16th Course: Ponche de Jamaica con Jocotes y Nuez (Hibiscus Punch with Pecan Pieces and Jocote Fruit)





Traditionally mixed with Tequila, this is a Winter, Christmas time only drink. It's just a motley brew of about whatever fruit you can find. This time it was Jocotes, tiny crabapple-like fruit.

17th Course: Flan de Calabasita (Zucchini Flan)





Zucchini--when it is abundant--is also used in sweets. Here, it's strips added nice textural contrast to silky Flan.

18th Course: Toronja Grajeada con pasta de Chocolate Mexicano (Crystallized Grapefruit Wedges with Mexican Chocolate Paste)





Super Labor Intensive, process taking 24 hours to complete. Apparently, in older times, this dish was made by nuns for the highest class of clergymen, cardinals etc. Grapefruit is dessicated with Rock Sugar and then dipped in chunky chocolate paste.

This was it. I hope we all learned something.

I certainly did...a lot of new things I myself didn't even know.

La Casita Mexicana
4030 Gage Ave Bell,
CA 90201
(323) 773-1898
Open Daily 9am-10pm

Thai New Year Songkran and International Curry Festival this Sunday!

How much ส้มตำ (Green Papaya Salad) can you handle?

I remember last years event, I must of ate like 4 different kinds, including one with FIRE-roasted peanuts and a Nuoc Cham (fish sauce) so pungent, my parents didn't wanna ride in the same car with me for like 2 day's.

It was here where I also first discovered that until a couple of years ago, fresh Mangosteen and Durian were actually illegal to import. Last year they sold both of these fresh, but expensive as hell.

This year, it looks like they are doing it in conjunction with the International Curry Festival, showcasing curries from around the world. Kenyan Curries? You bet, and of course Thai, Indian, Japanese, Jamaican etc...

Sweet Pandan-Coconut paste samples and a Thai beauty fashion show...I'm in.

The 2009 Thai New Year’s Day, Songkran Festival , April 5
Address: Hollywood Boulevard between Western Avenue and Vermont
Time : 10:00 AM to 7:00 PM.

Current Economy Student Foodieness: Packed Lunches and Snackage (Babaganoush, Pomegranate and Mint Sandwich)

This is what happens when you are a student foodie.

"Looking forward to my next meal and reminiscing in my past" is pretty much my way of life. Being at school for long periods of time (from 12PM to 10; at least 2 meal times!), my school lunch, snacks, drinks is something that I think through tirelessly.

The practice is pretty much an effort of making due with whatever I had rummaged in the week: Trader Joes, Fresh & Easy, Farmer's Markets, Shun Fat and the occasional enlightening trek to a different ethnic market etc. and putting forth my prior food experiences into some sort of semi-quick, semi-portable, concoction.

A long time ago I discovered that a food writer and a cook are two completely different passions, at least I think so. I mean, I cook just about everyday but, I pretty much free-cook just about everything I make/bake, eyeballing and hoping for the best. But, in recent efforts of rounding my skills out, I'm going to start sharpening my recipe writing side of a food writer, after all it is all for the sake of food.

This time around it was this, going with a Middle Eastern and Persian thought. Compensating for pita bread, the WHOLE Multi-Grain store brand loaf at Fresh & Easy was all I had, and it's actually pretty good. Natural ingredient based and pliable, not overly sweet like other market cardboard stuff. And pomegranate season being virtually over, it was my way of appreciating and saying goodbye. Mint was only natural after all this for some sort of green, besides, my mom grows them in little pots around our apartment, so I throw fresh-cut Mint in just about everything.

My quick rendition of the Grand Baba:
1 Large Eggplant OR 2 Small ones (Asian Market sourced Long, Narrow Japanese Eggplants tend to be less bitter)
1 Heaping TBSP of Tahini Sesame Seed Paste (Trader Joe's has a magnificent pre-seasoned, garlicky one)
2 TSP. Cumin, toasted (optional)
1 clove of garlic (optional; depending if you plan to finally ask that cute girl you've been eyeing)
Lemon
Salt

1. Set oven to 375 degrees
2. Place eggplant on any pan (cover with Aluminum paper if you're lazy) and place in Oven
3. Let roast for about 45-55 minutes, rotate that bad boy 25 minutes in for even roasting.
4. Place garlic clove in oven for last 15 minutes
5. Take them both out, and let cool (place in refrigerator, even freezer if you can't wait that long, just don't forget!)
6. Once cool, try your best to chop them up, don't worry, it's all going to get mashed.
7. Place in food processor with Tahini, cumin and a forceful squeeze of lemon and whip it good. (if no food processor, go old school, use a couple of forks and let your hunger out on them)

I finish this in one serving but I suppose, it 'serves 2'.

This stuff is versatile and down for anything, oregano-marinated lamb would be good, if you have money for the luxury of good meat nowadays.

Eat, Drink for the Cause: PPLA FoodFare

Food events are truly something to treasure, chef's and restaurants willing to put everything aside to come together for one huge convivial cause, moreover, a chance to sample each others designed nourishment all in one place. I determinedly look forward to each and every one that happens, trying my hardest to somehow make it, one way or another. These are really the only places where I get to finally sample all those $$$ places that I only read about.

Usually, a really good cause is the set beneficiary of such events, as is the case with Thursday Night's session of Planned Parenthood's Food Fare. Occupying the whole Santa Monica Civic Center, it was a full house--both ways--shoulder to shoulder with people and dish to drink with booths.






After a two hour also-crammed bus ride across town, it was time to appreciate. I make it a point to try to savor every single thing that is offered, and tonight was no exception.

Good to see that so many people are active and passionate about this subject, yes, that includes Pink's Hot dogs.







No three hour line in site and just about everyone walking around with a huge piled hot dog, this was one of the more popular booth's. I haven't had this since I was a kid, this time I liked that signature snap.

Made my way clockwise through both of the hall and the arena, here are just some of my highlights.

Gonpachi was the first booth.





Been wanting to try their handmade Soba since the longest but this will hold me over, I arrived right when the guy came with the tray of the stuff. Ebi Shinjo, freshly fried shrimp dumpling. Golden crispy exterior and fresh seafood taste molten interior, mmmm.

Anisette Brasserie was right next to them with the friendly Alain Giraud handing out these babies.





Thinking of only 'tasting it' with one bite since I knew it was going do a number to my satiety level, I kept on nibbling and nibbling until it was all gone, like an ethereal lipid realm I've never encountered before. Each bite exuded chewy melted butter and crisp, flaky crust. "The butter is imported from Brittany"....awh, that explains it.

Cafe Surfas, another highly anticipated destination didn't disappoint also. Adding a nice counter lightness to the stuff of much booth's to come.





Fresh greens doused with a chocolate pepper Vinaigrette and bits of Taleggio cheese...unexpected but worked.

Katsuya was another one in my list.





This was their take on the all-mighty Spicy Tuna Roll. Super smooth Avocado cream, Crispy Rice particles, and Soy Sauce syringe in tact. They came through with their high end [expensive] Sushi reputation that I've heard so much about.

Lemonade on Beverly took the light gourmet route. Each combination carefully thought out and tasty.
Spaghetti Squash, Farro and Pomegranate Vinaigrette





Roasted Cauliflower, Golden Raisins, Almonds and Curry Vinaigrette





Roasted Beet's, Pickled Onion and Hazelnut Vinaigrette





Nearing Passover, there were quite the amount of Jewish delectables to be had.





This was some Mushroom, Millet, Chicken Liver dish from C'est Si Bon Catering.





This was interesting, Lots 'a Matzah Munch by Penny's Sweet Shoppe. Toffee, almonds, chocolate on top of Matzah...don't know what it is about that salty and sweet phenomena, opposite flavor spectrums = so good.

Gelato Bar's generous tiny-scoopful of tutti-frutti and chocolate Sorbetto was my midway palate cleanser.





The dessert to savory booth ratio actually outweighed each other quite noticeably, my sweet tooth was definetely spoiled here.

La Provence Patisserie & Cafe showcased quite the bounty of elite french sweets. Tarts, Rolls, Cakes, Macaron's...you know, the usual culinary school textbook-perfect pastries.





Cafe La Boheme busted out with this silky Butterscotch Parfait.





I finally got to try a little of Akasha finally too.





Fleur De Sal Flourless Chocolate Cake. Salt crystals radically made the signature smooth richness of flourless cakes stand out even more.

I can go on and on...

The event as whole was great: organized, food supply consistent and gastronomically diverse.

I am already looking forward to next year's.