Tuesday, July 27, 2010

Chilaquiles At La Casita Mexicana: So Many Wasted Breakfasts

huevos con nopales
Nopalitos Con Huevo
: A Favorite Breakfast Of The Glutster


For you long time readers of mine, its no secret that La Casita Mexicana has a soft spot in my heart. Actually, its the only place I wholeheartedly recommend to anyone that asks me "Where do I eat Mexican? Its the only all around Mexican place in L.A that I can personally vouch for to be quite honest. There is not one single time I've gone--invited or not--where every single bite of the food was not a pleasure in itself.

Time after time, dish after dish, each bite never ceases to sweep me off my feet somehow, no matter what I get and how many times I get it. I've never seen such a high commitment to quality carried out so intensely. This is Mexican Food that satisfies more than just hunger for me, rustic yet refined, ultra-traditional yet executed progressively...its Mexican food that strikes a harmonizing chord with the beat of me: A 21 year old 2nd generation Mexican-American living in East L.A on his quest to find myself, my roots--through food.

And could you believe that after all this...I still hadn't had their effin Chilaquiles!?

chilaquiles rojox
Chilaquilitos Rojos
: Spicy, Savory Dry Heat


Well I think it was about damn time.

Fortunately, I have really grown close to Jaime Martin Del Campo and Ramiro Arvizu in this last year that I've known them. It doesn't hurt that these two are already the most humble, nicest chefs in L.A probably. A couple of weeks ago, they had invited to me to come down to bell on a groggy Wednesday early morning to finally have the honor of finally tasting their highly esteemed Chilaquiles, they were doing filming an early morning piece for their weekly segment they have on the Spanish morning show "Despierta America" on Univision and were finished by 8:00 AM.

And my oh my, so many wasted breakfasts.

They make their Chilaquiles here with freshly fried tortilla chips that they make in house, briefly sauteing the chips in one of their various sauces just so they adhere beautifully but not to make soggy: Mole Poblano, Pipian de Pepita, Pipian de Cacahuate, Salsa de Tomatillo, Chile Rojo, Chipotle. Meaning they have over SIX different Chilaquile variations. (Divorciados being the last choice; where you get to choose two that are 'divorced' by a thick boundary line of cold and creamy Crema Mexicana)

Each sauce adhering to the chips differently, the pipian thick and rich, the tomatillo thin and tangy. To make a perfect chilaquile is like skillfully cooking a dried pasta, a second shorter and it will just be watery wet chip, a second over and you will have have the beginning stages of a tortilla soup. One a many times, even my mom overcooks them. But I am ecstatic to say that here, it is a mastered craft.

Chilaquiles De Chile Verde
Chilaquiles De Chile Verde: Tangy And Crispy


Thanks to Jaime and Ramiro for finally having me over para desayunar and thank you for bringing the time honored, traditional foods of my cultures past to an otherwise Northern Mexican barren wasteland of Los Angeles.

Buen Provecho!

Jaime and Ramiro
Jaime Martin Del Campo and Ramiro Arvizu


La Casita Mexicana
4030 Gage Avenue
Bell, CA 90201-1127
(323) 773-1898

Open Daily 9am-10pm

Chilaquiles: $8.99

www.casitamex.com

follow them on twitter:
@casitamex

Thursday, July 22, 2010

...Just A Couple Of Upcoming Ways To Carpe Diem In L.A Through Food

On the quickness!

Here are just a couple of ways to go out and enjoy our beautiful city during the next few days :)

Food GPS Progressive Eating Tour of Beverly Boulevard
(This Sunday 3PM July 25th; $45 Per Person; 4 Restaurants)

Food-GPS-Beverly-Boulevard-Walking-Tour


Join the Food GPS himself on a progressive walking tour as he "spotlights four great restaurants located on (or just off) Beverly Boulevard. Eva, BLD, MILK and The Golden State as each chef-owner will introduce a plate, treat or drink."

Buy your bargain tickets for this event at Amuse L.A.

For Questions contact Josh Lurie at joshua@foodgps.com

Street Food Series At Angeli Caffe (Ricky's Fish Tacos)
(This Monday July 26th, 6 to 10 PM; Fish and Shrimp Tacos For $3 Each; Beer Will Be Sold)

rickys fish taco champion

Ricky's Fish Taco: Deemed The Best In L.A

In an effort "to help spread the news that street food is a good thing, and is a vital part of LA's restaurant community and culture", Bill Esparza of Street Gourmet L.A (fellow L.A Mexican food blood brother and my all around mentor) will be partnering up with Evan Kleiman (of the radio show Good Food and Angeli owner) to do a series of street food pop ups "to bring traditional street food closer to the West Side and Mid-City areas." It should be known that Ricky's Fish Taco was deemed the best fish taco in Los Angeles by the Taco Task Force of Los Angeles.

Support the Cause(s)!!!


Tuesday, July 20, 2010

Day Trip to Tijuana Seafood Festival: You Don't Even Know....

back to reality
No Going Back Now

I spent this last Sunday not sleeping in like every other Sunday but instead in the closest proximity of the motherland: Tijuana. Thanks to the valiant efforts of Street Gourmet L.A and
Jahdiel Vargas, Emma Cruz, and all the people at CANIRAC and COTUCO, an impromptu day trip out to the Seafood Festival was made possible for a few of us. The family oriented free event took place in the Playas area of Tijuana this last Sunday.

Playas Vacation Destination!
Playas: Beach Border Underdog Vacation Destination

And no I was not shot at, I was not mugged, I was not raped--ha ha. Its a damn shame how easy negative rumors get around and somehow substitute the truth. Oh well, more local, fresh seafood for us!

mariscos list
Ni Cual Localvore Ni Nada Hombre

Cesar Escandon of a local restaurant La Cafeteria was churning out the local seafood standards but ever so deftly executed. Like a fresh ceviche made out of swordfish or one made out of octopus and prawns served on artisan Tostadas, here they drizzle mayonnaise on just about everything. I like.

bomb ass ceviche mixto
Tostada De Ceviche Local

It wasn't too long before we ran into the quintessential Baja staple though.

tacos de pescado baja seafood festival
The One And Only Baja-Style Fish Taco

Fried twice with a jaggedly crisp, lightly mustard flavored battered. These tacos are generously garnished with raw slivered cabbage, pico de gallo and a milked-down mayo sauce and Guacamole combination, a truly unctuous seafood experience.

baja brut!
Baja Bubbly: Vinicola L.A Cetto

It was time for a water--or wine--break. Meaning, take in the glory of Baja wines. Vinicola Don Cetto is one of the big hitters down in El Valle De Guadalupe, basically the Napa Valley of Baja. This particular sparkling white wine was a tad on the sweeter side for my taste since I usually like my bubbly's on the dryer side but still refreshing nonetheless mang.

Paella Plate
Baja Paella: Good Seafood But I Miss My Saffron

Next up was some Paella done in the Baja style as well. Looked way better than it tasted. Basically, this meant nothing but the most pristine seafood flavored rice but without the enticing aroma of saffron. I also wasn't too impressed with the use of short grain fat rice grains and not traditional Paella rice. But SAS! Can't have it all.

Original Ceasar Salad straight from the source
The Original Caesar Salad: Born In Tijuana

One of my favorite things of the day was tasting the first and original Caesar Salad from the original hotel that created it itself, the Ceaser's Hotel on Revolucion. Here, the only ingredients were raw egg yolks, Parmesan, olive oil, garlic, anchovies, lemon juice salt and pepper. All are emulsified beautifully to a lush, creamy full bodied dressing that coats romaine lettuces like no other.

roving candy at playas
Roaming Snack Cart

Another thing I love about Tijuana is the street availability of just about anything, like this roaming 'snack-ero' that slanged everything from Dried Mango In Chamoy to chile powder-roasted fava and garbanzo beans, my munchy favorites.

mmm coconut meat
Young, Tender Fresh Coconut: The Glutster's Poison

The absolute Glutster street snack favorite in Baja though are the freshly cracked, young meat of local coconuts. These taste a lot different than the widely available Thai young coconuts available here in L.A with a more savory flavor spectrum to them, which makes them all the better when doused with lime, chile and chamoy!

And last but not least, Baja style stuffed churros! Actually, I regret to inform you guys that I actually didn't get to gorge on these this time around but nonetheless here they are in all their unabashed sweet, decadent glory. mmmmm

pinches churros rellenos at playas tijuana
Stuffed Baja Style Churros: Chocolate, Caramel or Vanilla...Choose Your Arteries Poison

And this was only the beginning of the day. See "T.J" isn't that bad now is it?










Saturday, July 17, 2010

BierGarten: International Brew and Bites Moving Koreatown Forward

Introducing..
All Of A Sudden I Have A Green Thumb

So I've been finding myself in the same place out in K-Town every single day for the last two weeks--a surprising first for my usually attachment-free self. And no, I wasn't eating seasonal banchan over at Mapo nor getting my Oaxacan fill at Guelaguetza but instead...sipping on some fine-drawn brews at a Bier Garten.

Bier Gartens Signage
German And Korean Signage

I remember being dumbfounded every time I passed by the Korean-German facade as I drove down Western. An actual German style Bier Garten in Koreatown? Naaah, it couldn't be.Well, it was. And apparently, its something that this part of L.A desperately needed.

Bier Garten is the four month old project of Neil Kwon, a guy who really--really--likes beer. He happened to go to school right next to Pyramid brewery, a brewery known for their unfiltered, full flavored Hefeweizen's. He tells me it was love at first sip. And like any other lovestruck fool, he fell hard. He actually went backpacking through Europe for the sole reason tasting beer. "
I had a chance to go to Hofbrau haus and the Chinese Gardens in Munich, the classic beer gardens."

Neil Kwon Loves Beer
Neil Kwon Loves Beer

According to Kwon,
"I was betting on that Koreatown is changing. More Korean Americans and non-Koreans are moving into the area. Koreatown is pretty exclusive by nature and I wanted to create a place where anyone and everyone who likes beer can enjoy."

tap into this!
Over 25 Beers On Tap At BierGarten

Well, he certainly did. At only four months old, Biergarten already holds over 24 international beers on tap and more than 4 readily available as bottles. They range from an almost equal selection from the two beer powers of the world: Gernany and Belgium. And if you must know, the
Kostrizer Schwarzbier, a minimal hopped German black lager with a faintly flowery aroma, and the house dark wheat Dunkelweiss are what most likely will always be in my frosted stein (pictured on header photo above). Not to say that I won't drink anything new that Neil gets in, which seems to be pretty freaking often. Last new beer I remember was a pretty damn impressive IPA from DogFish Head brewery.

Dog Fish Head IPA
I Love Head

Maybe it has something to do with the Nitrogen Mixer that has a custom ratio for each classification of beer. Neil had it installed when he first bought the place, he would not have it any other way. But all the beer here somehow tastes crisper, cleaner and more refreshing.

beer enhancer
As If Beer Couldn't Get Any Better

But I digress, its time to get back on the Glutster track....the full Korean-Mexican-German menu here. I'll start with the beer bite essential basics from both spectrum's first.

PBR Rings And Fries w: Chipotle Dipping Sauce
Pabst Onion Rings And Tempura Fries: Don't Even Trip!

So I was a late 'bloomer' to the Onion Ring world but I came, and better late than never. The onion rings here are leavened with the one and only Pabst Blue Ribbon lager, aka "PBR" for all you fucken hipsters, ha ha. And each ring is a divine dinner-vention in itself. As crispy on the outside--moist on the inside--as a freshly fried Krispy Kreme donut, well...only savory and well seasoned. The tempura fries are good too if you swing that way. The best thing of all is that 4 beers later, both will be just as crispy and good, a fried rarity indeed. But, no matter what you get, ask for the house made Chipotle Ketchup and Jalapeño Mayo as dipping sauces....trust.

The menu that ranges from a traditional grilled Wurst plate to quite the assortment of ultra traditional Korean-Japanese foods. I should mention that Neil's dad who works the back of the house kinda 'breathes' fish, he's been working at Japanese restaurants since he was in 6th grade. So you should not be offended when you see an ultra-fresh Seared Albacore Tuna Salad or Grilled Eel served with uncolored slivers of fresh Ginger on the menu. I've had both more than twice already and have noticed the vast improvement in each dish.

Seared Ahi Tuna Salad W: Maraschino Cherry Dressing
Hey! Eating Salad With Beer Cancels It Out!: Seared Tuna Salad

I managed to sneak into the kitchen last time and see the masterful technique behind BierGarten's enticing Drunken Chicken. A full bird that is cooked from the inside out via the flavorful vapors of a mixture consisting of mostly some Oktoberfest Marzen, Sapporo and Asahi when I was there. The juicy fowl is cut table side and served with a duo of mustard dipping sauces and a razor thin cabbage salad. Most of the fat seeps out the side of the bird during the cooking process and results in some surprisingly lean, moist flesh. I've seen people eat almost one joyously whole chicken like if somehow was all dark meat or something.

beer chicken
Cock-A-Doodle-Beer!

bier gartens drunken chicken about to roast
The Way Every Chicken Should Go

table side bier chicken
Table Side Drunken Chicken

But after all this, I am a beaner and no matter how cool all this other stuff is, the Korean Tacos will always be closest to my heart. Unlike their intense--sweeteer--Kogi predecessors, these are refined and subtle and balanced. Its served with less garnishes to interfere in the way of the flavorful filling and an emulsified smoky-spicy-sweet sauce that is made from two of the best heats in this world: Chipotle and Gochujang. And well...on a homemade Tortilla that I kind of taught them myself how to make. And that alone right there will warrant any taco a cut above the rest

handmade tortilla korean taco trio at bier gartens
The New Best Korean Taco In Town: On A Glutster Inspired Handmade Tortilla

The Kalbi is tender, the spicy pork rich and not too far from its Al Pastor brother from another mother. But my favorite is and shall always be the spicy tofu. The spicy sauce somehow adheres to the coarse grained tortilla just like the adobo does from the traditional al pastor ones. And yes, it has made me swoon one a many times.

The menu is still in its rough draft, but thanks to the selfless efforts Eddie Hah of 8 oz Burger and I, it is only getting better and better. Expect things like American style Corn Dogs with Korean Seafood Sausage and a Wasabi Mayo and Sliders made out of traditional Korean seasoned ground beef and pickles.

D.I
D.I.Y Beer Floats

And for dessert, there are glorious beer floats made with the most O.G of ice creams: Thrifty Brand. Don't deny the fact that its bomb, we all grew up with it.

If you're really down, ask for a Makgeolli float. The latest and greatest of contemporary Korean food fusion that Pulque-like unfiltered sweet, sparkling rice wine with a fat scoop of citrusy sherbert.

Now, if you excuse me I have to roll out to make their Pabst Pitcher 1¢ Happy Hour!

Makgoli Freaking Float!
Makgeolli Float With Orange Sherbert: You Don't Even Know...


Bier Garten
206 N Western Ave
Los Angeles, CA 90004
Neighborhood: Wilshire Center
(323) 466-4860

Open Everyday
5PM-12AM

Price of Food Beer $6-15

$1.50 Valet

Thursday, July 15, 2010

Passion Makes Perfect: A Recipe For Jashmine Corpuz's Seasonal Olallieberry Pie

J.C Pies
Passion Makes Perfect:
It Only Seems Hard

There is something to be said when someone chooses to follow their passion no matter what...for better or for worse. Maybe it will never 'make sense', maybe it will never be the most 'rational' nor is it ever going to be anywhere near the most 'secure' choice neither. But...material wealth and security are mere frailties in life when you do not spend it doing and perfecting what you truly love. And that intangible feeling of pure unexplicable happiness and ever-understanding mental satisfaction--is priceless.

That being said, I will now share a seasonal Summer pie recipe courtesy of Jashmine Corpuz, the bon vivant
pastry chef of Drago Centro. I was lucky enough to try it but don't think I realized just how great it really was until now.

High quality berries can be found at the Murray Family Farms
stand during the Wednesday morning Santa Monica Farmers Market. Her unique addition of Tapioca starch retains this pies moistness quite nicely so it won't look like a bloody murder scene upon slicing, it also adds a more stable body to the cooked berries. Also, a respectable amount of both fresh lemon zest and juice keeps the berries intense fruity-tart flavor train going. This recipe was made with pure fresh Olallie's but you can make from whatever berries that are lucky enough to bless you, boysen's, blue's, raspb's a mixture even with Rhubarb even, its all up to you...

Pie'd And Confused
Dessert Devotchka

Jashmine Corpuz's Seasonal Olallieberry Pie

*preheat oven to 500

Pie Dough

2 ½ C AP flour
1tsp Salt
2TB Sugar
½ C Shortening
1 ½ sticks Butter (unsalted)
7TB Ice water

Measure shortening and butter first. Cut fat into small pieces. Place in freezer for about 20 min. This will keep your dough cold.

Measure other dry ingredients and place in a food processor.

Scatter frozen butter in processor and pulse until the fat are the size of peas.

Pour the mixture into a medium sized bowl.

Add the ice water, and with a pastry scraper gently fold and cut into the dough. Do not knead it! This will only make your crust tough.

Once it forms a ball, shape it into a disk and refrigerate for at least 1 hour.

Olallieberry Filling

3pints Olallieberries
3pints Blueberries
1C+1TB Sugar
1tsp Lemon Zest
2tsp Lemon Juice
¼ tsp Ground Cinnamon
4TB Tapioca Starch
2TB Butter (unsalted)

1. Place berries in a medium bowl.

2. Zest lemon and juice. Place all other dry ingredients over berries and gently fold.

3. Let this sit and marinate for a bit.

To Assemble:

1. Lightly flour dough and roll out to 1/4 “ in thickness. Use flour when necessary to avoid sticking.
2. Gently use the rolling pin to pick up the sheet of dough and roll over a 9” pie pan.
3. Lightly press the inside of the pan. With kitchen shears cut around the pie tin leaving 1 ½ “ off of the edge.
4. Save the dough scraps and roll out again. Cut into 1” strips. You should have at least 8 of them
5. Fill the pie with the berry mixture. Add the 2 TB of butter to the top of this.
6. Take 4 strips and lay them across the pie horizontally. Fold back every other strip.
7. Lay down a strip vertically. Unfold the horizontal strips. Next fold back the other horizontal strips and repeat the process.
8. Cut any excess hanging strips.
9. Fold the crust over the strips to seal the lattice. Pinch the edges all around the crust.
10. Lower the oven temperature to 450. Place pie in the oven. After 30 min lower the temp to 400 and turn the pie. Bake for another 30 min.
11. Take it out of the oven and let it rest for 1 hour.

berries all ready to go

jashmines opence pie


Step By Step Lattice Visual Guide:

lattice step 1

lattice step 2

lattice step 3

All Pie'd Up And Ready To Go

She served it to me with a dollop of freshly whipped Lavender cream and it was a slice I will never forget...

unforgettable pie slice

Sunday, July 11, 2010

East L.A Meets Napa 2010: Drinking Wine For The Hood

handling on the dance floor
It Ain't Nuthin' Without Passion

Glad to say this years East L.A Meets Napa 2010 was a success. For one thing, it was more than twice its size than last year and just as cracking with Latino royalty of all kinds. Although I think that I was probably the youngest person there, but well...as if I wasn't use to that already.

I was rolling deep too, hanging with my older brother Rojelio Cabral (fresh from a three year U.S hiatus in Buenos Aires!). And as you all probably don't know, he basically created The Glutster when he took me out to my first real restaurant five years ago.

This was basically his first non-pampas fed-beefsteak dinner he had in three years too, ha ha.

First things first! I'm only going to highlight the best wine I remember I had that night.

miguel casa adobe
Baja California Mexican Vino

Remember, I'm still relatively new to this wine-o stuff so bare with me. And up until now, I didn't really put to much attention to blends...until I tasted this Miguel Casa Adobe blend. Its made from Tempranillo 80%, Grenache 15%, Cabernet Sauvignon 5% and makes for a quite enjoyable sip. Quite smooth with this deep color and such full body. A slightly leathery nose that gave way for the fruity flavor of freshly cut strawberries that were left on a wood cutting board or something. There I go, trying to sound all romantic about my wine and stuff.

fish taco
Señor Fish Grilled Fish Tacos

Senõr Fish was the first wow of the night, grilled cod tacos with all the fixins on a homemade tortilla. It was my bro's favorite, although I think its because it was the first time he has salsa in three years too.

Proud to say there was two of my Zacatecano paisanos restaurants being represented too. Both Teresitas and Chalio's were there.

tacos de birria chalio
Birria For The Masses

Like last year, they had substituted the usual gamy--flavorful--protein of pinche chivito (goat) for lamb. Whatever really, still tender as all hell, you can't really go wrong with anything you cook that perfectly balanced vinegar and spice marinade they use. Heck, you could even put some boneless, skinless chicken breast and it'll still be bomb. No tortillas though? 'Atkins-ing' it I guess....

cacaos taquiza assortment
Cacao's Trio Of Tacos: Hasta Para Chuparse Los Deditos!

Major props goes out to Andrew Lujan from Cacao Mexicatessen for going all out with his offerings. A first timer to food events, he decided to not hold back on the quality and commitment that is Cacao even if that meant spending a prettier penny to come through. He offered a taco each of Wild Boar, Duck Carnitas, Huitlacoche, and one with his house made Chorizito!

La Huasteca Mexican History On A Plate
Mexico History On A Plate: Not Surprising Coming From Rocio Camacho

Next to him, was the lovely Rocio Camacho of La Husteca. She basically was offering Mexican History on a plate, having regional dishes from all pre-hispanic bichi's (braised verdolaguitas; Mexican Purslane), Yorique (spiced corn flour cooked chicken in raw mushroom caps) to Mestizo periods (Empanada de Flor De Calabasa; Squash Blossom Corn Turnover & Mini "Brazo De Reyna" Yucatan Tamales; "Queens Arm" Yucatan Tamales stuffed with Pumpkin Seeds and Hard Boiled Eggs). And of course, her deft hand at Oaxacan cuisine will never be absent where ever she cooks, with a tasty tortilla crisp canape topped with braised cactus and grasshoppers.

Rivera's Indian Tortilla
Indian Spiced Tortilla?: Only From Rivera Of Course!

Last but not The Glutster least, the last highlight of the night came from chef John Sedlar of Rivera restaurant, doing his signature work of art handmade "Indian Tortillas". And yes, he actually imprints them with real edible flowers. This time around though they were actually "Indian" "Tortillas"! ha ha. He changed it up by adding wonderful curry-like spices to the freshly elabortated corn masa. This gave for a PRIMO experience that I relished vastly in, especially when shmeared with some incredibly tart and thick spiced yogurt spread he also made. Think of your most favorite of Indian breads--Paratha, Chapari...Pani Puri even! But made with that golden brown and rich tasting mother grain of Maiz instead. Don't fuck around!

By around 9:30 though, party started to die down. Think it was bedtime for all those rich old folk that attended or something. That was the cue for me and my brother to make like a banana and leave. Of course we kept the ball rolling, introduced him to the L.A standard of desserts at the moment But that my friends--or readers--is a whole other bittersweet post in itself.

Anyways, I could only imagine how next years event will be like. But until then... buen provecho!


Thursday, July 01, 2010

Am I Cruel Or Just Hungry? You Decide!

lobster-613x418
Mmmmm

Handles!

One of the first questions I usually get asked by my A.L.F supporting Anarcho-Grind-Crust punk friends is if I ever feel bad for the food I eat.

Well, Zocalo Public Square recently went out and asked people what was "The cruelest thing you've ever ate?" They are doing a panel on July 7th with Jonathan Gold and a couple other food industry folk on the compelling topic of sustainable seafood called "Will Seafood Soon Be A Delicacy".

I kind of went ALL OUT with my response. I talked about eating lobster sashimi so fresh that it was still alive to look at me eat it, along with taking 'advantage' of some drunk shrimp. ha ha.

I guess they must of liked it because they published it on their website!

So here ya' go:

Trip out on my top of the food chain eating ways.

What would you do?