Extra! Extra!
Glutster now contributing to The Huffington Post!
Its thanks to this Youth Radio internship at NPR West I started doing a while back.
Here are my published pieces so far...
A Super Bowl Cajun Dip Recipe
Big Apple vs. City of Angels
many more to come man!
just stay posted...
Wednesday, March 24, 2010
Monday, March 22, 2010
Guelaguetza: That Oaxacan Swagger
Its Sunday morning (or rather afternoon in my case), you just woke up and you find yourself absolutely famished. To say that you’re stomach is ready for food is a different argument, its not very happy with you after how you treated it last night. Was it beer before liquor or liquor before beer? Throw in a 3AM snack of Soon Tofu soup or Tacos de Tripa and it doesn’t really matter anymore.
Hmm…what to eat, what tooo eat?! A plate of 2+2+2 doesn’t sound too appetizing; you’ve had eggs every other day this week. And Menudo? Well, you’ve never really been fond of the offal soup to be honest, and you don’t feel like getting full of the pure hominy yet again…it’s a childhood thing.
What is left? Barbacoa.
Lamb: Its What's For Breakfast!
Whole pieces of lamb, roasted in Maguey Leaves and seasoned according to region. Its food for the sake of mere sustenance, meaty protein seems like a godsend when you’re all cruda (hungover as all hell). Its just something about food you could just gnaw at, you know, hold it by the bones and abandon table manners for while . The time of hunters and gatherers is long gone but at least you get a feel for it for it with the bone-in, Guajillo chile rubbed Barbacoa at Guelaguetza.
Here, it is served with generous sides of lard-kissed black beans, a light Tomatillo infused Guacamole and a broth chock full of al dente string beans, carrots and comforting chunks of potato.
To wash down—and help your poor little liver detox—a splendid Oaxacan style horchata. B.S aside, its my favorite version at the moment, with an opaque pink hue thanks to the dash of tuna (“red prickly pear”) syrup and a handful of neatly chopped pecans pieces, the version here is sans milk, giving it a more rustic texture and interesting, lighter taste.
Last time I was here was a lamb-intensive week though, wasn’t craving the gamy beast actually. So, I decided to be annoying and ask if was possible to make me a custom version of Pulpo Endiablado. They did. It was splendid, chock full of smoky, lean chunks of cephalopod and braised onions. And now, its on the regular menu…
Smoky Tentacles
The 8th st. restaurant location has just recently been passed down to Fernando Lopez Jr. , the twenty-two year old son of the founder of the Guelaguetza empire. He is part of the new generation of restaurateurs, working those daily ten hour shifts with ceaseless bravado...and still partying 'till the break of dawn.
Embroded Emblem, White Collar And All: Fernando Doesn't Mess Around
Its always a good thing to see a restaurateur eating his own food, I think. What specifically does he eat?
Chapulines: Grasshopers Can Be Comfort Food Too!
He makes me a simple taco bite of his favorite way of having them. He smears some freshly steamed tortillas with those unctuous black beans, sprinkles a pinch-full of the bugs, and finishes off with some salty Quesillo (Oaxacan String Cheese) that Guelaguetza imports themselves.
Un Taquito De Chapulin: Beautiful
As I relish the bug taco. He tells me about one thing he "always has to have": Sweets (as he points to his food baby impregnated stomach).
Desserts At Guelaguetza
Golden fried plantains in condensed milk are crispy in the edges here. And flans come in every flavor, traditional, coffee and a ChocoFlan where it suddenly becomes a strata with a layer dense chocolate cake.
I love this guy.
(Barbacoa only available on Weekends)
8TH Street
3337 ½ W. 8th st.
Los Angeles CA 90005
tel: 213.427.0601
Olympic
3014 W. Olympic Blvd.
Los Angeles, CA 90006
tel: 213.427.0608
Plaza Mexico
11215 Long Beach Blvd #1010
Lynwood
tel: 310.884.9234
Hmm…what to eat, what tooo eat?! A plate of 2+2+2 doesn’t sound too appetizing; you’ve had eggs every other day this week. And Menudo? Well, you’ve never really been fond of the offal soup to be honest, and you don’t feel like getting full of the pure hominy yet again…it’s a childhood thing.
What is left? Barbacoa.
Lamb: Its What's For Breakfast!
Whole pieces of lamb, roasted in Maguey Leaves and seasoned according to region. Its food for the sake of mere sustenance, meaty protein seems like a godsend when you’re all cruda (hungover as all hell). Its just something about food you could just gnaw at, you know, hold it by the bones and abandon table manners for while . The time of hunters and gatherers is long gone but at least you get a feel for it for it with the bone-in, Guajillo chile rubbed Barbacoa at Guelaguetza.
Here, it is served with generous sides of lard-kissed black beans, a light Tomatillo infused Guacamole and a broth chock full of al dente string beans, carrots and comforting chunks of potato.
To wash down—and help your poor little liver detox—a splendid Oaxacan style horchata. B.S aside, its my favorite version at the moment, with an opaque pink hue thanks to the dash of tuna (“red prickly pear”) syrup and a handful of neatly chopped pecans pieces, the version here is sans milk, giving it a more rustic texture and interesting, lighter taste.
Last time I was here was a lamb-intensive week though, wasn’t craving the gamy beast actually. So, I decided to be annoying and ask if was possible to make me a custom version of Pulpo Endiablado. They did. It was splendid, chock full of smoky, lean chunks of cephalopod and braised onions. And now, its on the regular menu…
Smoky Tentacles
The 8th st. restaurant location has just recently been passed down to Fernando Lopez Jr. , the twenty-two year old son of the founder of the Guelaguetza empire. He is part of the new generation of restaurateurs, working those daily ten hour shifts with ceaseless bravado...and still partying 'till the break of dawn.
Embroded Emblem, White Collar And All: Fernando Doesn't Mess Around
Its always a good thing to see a restaurateur eating his own food, I think. What specifically does he eat?
Chapulines: Grasshopers Can Be Comfort Food Too!
He makes me a simple taco bite of his favorite way of having them. He smears some freshly steamed tortillas with those unctuous black beans, sprinkles a pinch-full of the bugs, and finishes off with some salty Quesillo (Oaxacan String Cheese) that Guelaguetza imports themselves.
Un Taquito De Chapulin: Beautiful
As I relish the bug taco. He tells me about one thing he "always has to have": Sweets (as he points to his food baby impregnated stomach).
Desserts At Guelaguetza
Golden fried plantains in condensed milk are crispy in the edges here. And flans come in every flavor, traditional, coffee and a ChocoFlan where it suddenly becomes a strata with a layer dense chocolate cake.
I love this guy.
(Barbacoa only available on Weekends)
8TH Street
3337 ½ W. 8th st.
Los Angeles CA 90005
tel: 213.427.0601
Olympic
3014 W. Olympic Blvd.
Los Angeles, CA 90006
tel: 213.427.0608
Plaza Mexico
11215 Long Beach Blvd #1010
Lynwood
tel: 310.884.9234
Thursday, March 18, 2010
Oaxacan Gastronomy Day at La Huasteca This Sunday
>THIS JUST IN!
Rocio Camacho formerly of Moles La Tia has just informed me about a "Oaxacan Gastronomy" day that she will be hosting at La Huasteca this Sunday.
She went on and on about some lady who was coming from Oaxaca for a couple of days just to make fresh Tejate. A divine Southern Mexican drink of toasted Cacao, toasted purple corn and the pit of the Mamey custard fruit. Think Horchata but with tastes of bitter chocolate and an ethereal creaminess provided by this natural whipped cream-like foam that forms on top. She will be having her own booth.
In addition to this, she said one of her favorite Mezcal companies were also going to be setting up camp outside...and she sounded mightily excited.
And of course, a Oaxacan-only brunch buffet that she will be catering herself will be available inside of the restaurant starting at 10:00 AM going through the day.
Tejate, Mezcal and Rocio behind a Oaxacan Buffet?
...sounds like the ideal Glutster Sunday morning Hangover cure!
Check out a recent tasting dinner that she held...
La Huasteca, 3150 E. Imperial Hwy., Lynwood; 310-537-8800.
www.lahuasteca.com
Saturday, March 13, 2010
Maison Akira: Punks On Pâté
I don't have much old school friends that are really into food. Most of the time, I know more about their mom's homemade food than they know themselves. I mean, there always is drunk talk about "going out to go eat one day maaan!" whenever we hang out. And one time, I did take one of my vato loco friend's out for some Dim Sum once, but most of their money spending goes towards more altering sources of fun...
Then there is the homie Dan Barr. I first met the guy at a Guelaguetza dinner one of my readers from out of town had organized. I knew the guy was not like the rest when he knew the difference between a Huarache and a Memela. We've chilled out ever since.
Dan the Man
He told me his old man had given him a $100 certificate to Maison Akira a while back, and it was in our post-'mosh'-pit daze after a Fear and D.I show one night that he remembered about it, saying he was saving until it was ready...and it was time.
We decided to incorporate an early dinner into our crackin' Friday night this last weekend. I was pretty damn excited, the Kyoto-born Chef Akira trained under Chef Joel Robuchon for a good amount of years. Hence, his classical French themed menu with an innovative, deft Japanese flair.
A Little Fine Dining Before A Night Of Ultra Violence?
Mohawked and patched out, we were ready for an under $100 certificate feast to remember for the rest of our lives. Tonight, instead of power chord anthems, our theme music for the night was a fairly "ambient collection of jaunty, spring season classical" ballads, courtesy of Maison's smooth Muzak.
Frozen Butter: With Essence of Food Storage Fridge
Butter was colder than a mo'fo, with a lingering background taste of an economy food storage fridge. Not the Plugra, extra rich stuff I had envisioned. Good thing I'm not a butter snob.
Then came the small-portion onslaught. The menu was recently redeveloped to include a "Tapas" sized option, that was basically half the portion and price. We took this approach for every dish tonight to maximize our eating diversity.
First up, was an tiny Amuse of Salmon Rillete with a Sweet, Piquillo Pepper Sauce.
Salmon Rillete: Such a Tease!
A dolled up Salmon Salad, hmm...ok. Tasty though meager, that Piquillo sauce was like Ketchup without the Vinegar-y twang.
Duck Pâté: Umami...Straight Up ($7)
What's French Food without a forcemeat, right? This one was quite meaty with immense dark-meat nook and cranny chunks of the fowl. Green peppercorns were tame and engaging.
Venison Carpaccio: I Killed Bambie's Mom
Served with a Wasabi Aioli Sauce and Petite Salad ($9), this wowed both of us with its tenderness. Was unlike any Venison we've had before, not gamy in the least and that emulsified Aioli linked with its leanness to round out the rich experience.
Brandy Flamed Maine Lobster Bisque: Rich, Rich, Rich!
Dan has a soft spot for Lobster anything. This soup packed a briny punch, Lobster Bisque if there was ever a thing man. It seemed like a roux-base, with no cream. Hence, the drowning-in-the-beach unadulterated taste.
Zucchini Flan N Canadian Scallops: Tasty Eyy
Sautéed Canadian Scallops with King Oyster Mushroom Sympatic and Zucchini Basil Flan($16) I love me some Scallops. And these were creamy, sweet and tasting of a fresh shuckling . The creamy, green Flan's texture was a molecule away from the scallops texture, both creamy and sweet, a magnificent side for the shellfish.
Smoked Duck: Blazing That Duck Out
Pan-Roasted Smoked Duck Breast & Duck Leg Confit Parmentier in a Calvados Sauce($18). The smoke was deep and complex, enough to appease the bacon loving masses and lovers of juicy, rare cooked fatty birds. The Parmentier was pleasant too. The chef really loved those king oyster 'shrooms though, used it without abandon through out the night!
And last but not near the savory least.
Miso Marinated Grilled Chilean Sea Bass: A Bad Ass Savory Clincher Indeed
Miso Marinated Grilled Chilean Sea Bass with Grilled Ratatouille in a Honey Lemon Jus($19). Chef Akira's esteemed signature dish that he served to the Emperor & Empress of Japan during their visit to Los Angeles in 1994 was a bad ass savory clincher indeed. Buttery was an understatement here. Not as bold as the Nobu typical Black Cod preparation but in fact, the exact opposite. Subtly seasoned, minutely sweet and downright moist. The grilled Ratouille was served like a pilaf on top of extra wide grains of rice that were like whatever. But that fish!
And I nearly did a back flip when I saw a Baked Alaska's on their dessert menu. I've only gawked at pictures and read about this super-elusive dessert since I first started with food. You know what they say about your first...
A Baked Alaska: Four and A Half Years in The Making
Akira's version was revamped with a generous amount of well balanced, green tea ice cream and a tangy Rasberry Sauce ($12). And hell, even flambeed table side, literally. The waiter pours a couple of ladle-fulls Mandarin Liqueur that he torches up himself onto the thick, layer of soft peaked Meringue. This creates a rather pleasurable charred s'more like texture to mix with the chilled green tea ice cream and thin sponge cake inside.
Igloo Destruction is My Middle Name
Dan and I don't really remember the rest of that night much but I'm sure we will never forget that blue ember burning Alaska...
Maison Akira Restaurant
www.maisonakira.com
713 East Green Street
Pasadena, CA 91101-2111
(626) 796-9501
Then there is the homie Dan Barr. I first met the guy at a Guelaguetza dinner one of my readers from out of town had organized. I knew the guy was not like the rest when he knew the difference between a Huarache and a Memela. We've chilled out ever since.
Dan the Man
He told me his old man had given him a $100 certificate to Maison Akira a while back, and it was in our post-'mosh'-pit daze after a Fear and D.I show one night that he remembered about it, saying he was saving until it was ready...and it was time.
We decided to incorporate an early dinner into our crackin' Friday night this last weekend. I was pretty damn excited, the Kyoto-born Chef Akira trained under Chef Joel Robuchon for a good amount of years. Hence, his classical French themed menu with an innovative, deft Japanese flair.
A Little Fine Dining Before A Night Of Ultra Violence?
Mohawked and patched out, we were ready for an under $100 certificate feast to remember for the rest of our lives. Tonight, instead of power chord anthems, our theme music for the night was a fairly "ambient collection of jaunty, spring season classical" ballads, courtesy of Maison's smooth Muzak.
Frozen Butter: With Essence of Food Storage Fridge
Butter was colder than a mo'fo, with a lingering background taste of an economy food storage fridge. Not the Plugra, extra rich stuff I had envisioned. Good thing I'm not a butter snob.
Then came the small-portion onslaught. The menu was recently redeveloped to include a "Tapas" sized option, that was basically half the portion and price. We took this approach for every dish tonight to maximize our eating diversity.
First up, was an tiny Amuse of Salmon Rillete with a Sweet, Piquillo Pepper Sauce.
Salmon Rillete: Such a Tease!
A dolled up Salmon Salad, hmm...ok. Tasty though meager, that Piquillo sauce was like Ketchup without the Vinegar-y twang.
Duck Pâté: Umami...Straight Up ($7)
What's French Food without a forcemeat, right? This one was quite meaty with immense dark-meat nook and cranny chunks of the fowl. Green peppercorns were tame and engaging.
Venison Carpaccio: I Killed Bambie's Mom
Served with a Wasabi Aioli Sauce and Petite Salad ($9), this wowed both of us with its tenderness. Was unlike any Venison we've had before, not gamy in the least and that emulsified Aioli linked with its leanness to round out the rich experience.
Brandy Flamed Maine Lobster Bisque: Rich, Rich, Rich!
Dan has a soft spot for Lobster anything. This soup packed a briny punch, Lobster Bisque if there was ever a thing man. It seemed like a roux-base, with no cream. Hence, the drowning-in-the-beach unadulterated taste.
Zucchini Flan N Canadian Scallops: Tasty Eyy
Sautéed Canadian Scallops with King Oyster Mushroom Sympatic and Zucchini Basil Flan($16) I love me some Scallops. And these were creamy, sweet and tasting of a fresh shuckling . The creamy, green Flan's texture was a molecule away from the scallops texture, both creamy and sweet, a magnificent side for the shellfish.
Smoked Duck: Blazing That Duck Out
Pan-Roasted Smoked Duck Breast & Duck Leg Confit Parmentier in a Calvados Sauce($18). The smoke was deep and complex, enough to appease the bacon loving masses and lovers of juicy, rare cooked fatty birds. The Parmentier was pleasant too. The chef really loved those king oyster 'shrooms though, used it without abandon through out the night!
And last but not near the savory least.
Miso Marinated Grilled Chilean Sea Bass: A Bad Ass Savory Clincher Indeed
Miso Marinated Grilled Chilean Sea Bass with Grilled Ratatouille in a Honey Lemon Jus($19). Chef Akira's esteemed signature dish that he served to the Emperor & Empress of Japan during their visit to Los Angeles in 1994 was a bad ass savory clincher indeed. Buttery was an understatement here. Not as bold as the Nobu typical Black Cod preparation but in fact, the exact opposite. Subtly seasoned, minutely sweet and downright moist. The grilled Ratouille was served like a pilaf on top of extra wide grains of rice that were like whatever. But that fish!
And I nearly did a back flip when I saw a Baked Alaska's on their dessert menu. I've only gawked at pictures and read about this super-elusive dessert since I first started with food. You know what they say about your first...
A Baked Alaska: Four and A Half Years in The Making
Akira's version was revamped with a generous amount of well balanced, green tea ice cream and a tangy Rasberry Sauce ($12). And hell, even flambeed table side, literally. The waiter pours a couple of ladle-fulls Mandarin Liqueur that he torches up himself onto the thick, layer of soft peaked Meringue. This creates a rather pleasurable charred s'more like texture to mix with the chilled green tea ice cream and thin sponge cake inside.
Igloo Destruction is My Middle Name
Dan and I don't really remember the rest of that night much but I'm sure we will never forget that blue ember burning Alaska...
Maison Akira Restaurant
www.maisonakira.com
713 East Green Street
Pasadena, CA 91101-2111
(626) 796-9501
Tuesday, March 02, 2010
Daphnes Caribbean Cuisine (NY): An Ackee Goodbye
It was my last day in Gotham, I was there for a little over a week, meaning several awesome lunches, dinners...but no breakfasts! It was hard for me to wake up by noon, let alone breakfast time. You can blame the three hour timezone lag for that!
But on this last day, I broke my fast at 10:30 AM to the pleasures of the cooked egg-like fruit of Ackee and Salt Cod, the national dish of Jamaica.
Ackee, Salt Cod, Boiled Green Plantain and Dumpling: Breakfast
It had always been on my "things to eat before I die" list since I first heard of this strange fruit. Literally--raw Ackee and its red tissue inside are actually poisonous if the shell is forced open.
The Ackee itself tasted and looked like slowly scrambled, moist eggs with a light vegetal taste of ripe avocado slices. The salt cod was still a little on the dry side and onion was apparent more than anything else, in spite of that, its small portion only made me savor it more.
I was surprised at the cost of the dish (around $17) but was determined! Daphne's sister was kind enough to explain that she only uses frozen-thawed ackee...not canned. And the stuff runs at a pretty expensive market price.
The plate is served with an option of rice and beans or a Dumpling and Bananas, being the lover of all things new to experience and carbs, I immediately opted for the latter! The banana tasted just like like a dried up, bland, boiled potato--straight up. While the dumpling was just a big blob of chewy, starchy goodness. No actual filling though.
Daphne's Jerk Chicken: Subtle and Very Pronounced
Noticing me snapping away at her food, she asked why I was doing so. I told her it was my last day in NY and I wanted Ackee! She asked me if I ever tried Jerk Chicken, I told her of course. Then she said "not mine"...
I was really happy to have chosen this place over the many other Ackee joints in town, inside was warm and comfy, peaceful, nice counterbalance to the rat race frenzy going on in the frigid temperatures outside.
Warm Caribbean Hospitality
On my way out after paying, the cashier had asked me to take a bag of some of their imported Jamaican snacks to try on my flight home.
Jackass Corn Biscuits: MMM...Jamaican Me Hungry!
He chuckled when I asked about these, replying in a super-thick Jamaican accent "are you sure? they be very hard to chew, but we love them in Jamaica". That sold it for me, other culture's unique delicacies is what secretly fuels The Glutster.
And then I saw why, these reminded me of some opened ginger snaps I had stashed somewhere and forgotten about once, dense and barely penetrable by human mandibles. Nonetheless, packed with shredded coconut and ginger...I ate one whole one happily on my way back.
I'm going to miss New York.
Daphnes Caribbean Cuisine
250 E 14th St. (14th & 2nd)
(212) 228-6144
But on this last day, I broke my fast at 10:30 AM to the pleasures of the cooked egg-like fruit of Ackee and Salt Cod, the national dish of Jamaica.
Ackee, Salt Cod, Boiled Green Plantain and Dumpling: Breakfast
It had always been on my "things to eat before I die" list since I first heard of this strange fruit. Literally--raw Ackee and its red tissue inside are actually poisonous if the shell is forced open.
The Ackee itself tasted and looked like slowly scrambled, moist eggs with a light vegetal taste of ripe avocado slices. The salt cod was still a little on the dry side and onion was apparent more than anything else, in spite of that, its small portion only made me savor it more.
I was surprised at the cost of the dish (around $17) but was determined! Daphne's sister was kind enough to explain that she only uses frozen-thawed ackee...not canned. And the stuff runs at a pretty expensive market price.
The plate is served with an option of rice and beans or a Dumpling and Bananas, being the lover of all things new to experience and carbs, I immediately opted for the latter! The banana tasted just like like a dried up, bland, boiled potato--straight up. While the dumpling was just a big blob of chewy, starchy goodness. No actual filling though.
Daphne's Jerk Chicken: Subtle and Very Pronounced
Noticing me snapping away at her food, she asked why I was doing so. I told her it was my last day in NY and I wanted Ackee! She asked me if I ever tried Jerk Chicken, I told her of course. Then she said "not mine"...
I was really happy to have chosen this place over the many other Ackee joints in town, inside was warm and comfy, peaceful, nice counterbalance to the rat race frenzy going on in the frigid temperatures outside.
Warm Caribbean Hospitality
On my way out after paying, the cashier had asked me to take a bag of some of their imported Jamaican snacks to try on my flight home.
Jackass Corn Biscuits: MMM...Jamaican Me Hungry!
He chuckled when I asked about these, replying in a super-thick Jamaican accent "are you sure? they be very hard to chew, but we love them in Jamaica". That sold it for me, other culture's unique delicacies is what secretly fuels The Glutster.
And then I saw why, these reminded me of some opened ginger snaps I had stashed somewhere and forgotten about once, dense and barely penetrable by human mandibles. Nonetheless, packed with shredded coconut and ginger...I ate one whole one happily on my way back.
I'm going to miss New York.
Daphnes Caribbean Cuisine
250 E 14th St. (14th & 2nd)
(212) 228-6144
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