Listening To The Smooooth Sounds of The Glutster This Saturday On KCRW's Good Food!

Evan and Me Nom, Nom'in: Tofu and BBQ Pork Banh Mi's

Saturday Saturday Saturday!

Tune in to KCRW's Good Food (89.9 FM local L.A station) at exactly 11:28 AM to listen to Evan and I discussing contemporary food truck culture in Los Angeles.

I answer questions like how these new generation trucks have served as a gateway to otherwise squeamish West Siders, finally opening up to having a real taco at O.G Taco trucks. One step closer to erasing the ill witted term of calling them "Roach Coaches"!

Plus, I also reveal what my food truck would be like if there were ever such a thing!

The Glutster Truck?

Mariscos Chente: Sneak That Snook Baby

Chente Signage

I remember when Bill of Street Gourmet L.A first told me about this place. He would tell me about how Sergio, the Sinaloan cook was doing some damn complex sauces like no other chef in town. He would tell me how Magdalena, the Nayarit born owner and mother in Law of Sergio would go a couple of times a month all the way to Mazatlan just to get the utmost freshest seafood, since they both simply did not like what was readily available here.

And I remember the first time he brought me there, maybe half a year ago, and being blown the hell way. It must of been the first time I pleasurably ate shrimp since an unfortunate Charroleada incident in San Pedro (Ports-O-Call) where I had eaten a WHOLE tray of their "you buy we fry" Shrimp Fajitas, followed by a condensed-milk-stuffed Churro and then popcorn and then ugh.

These Mazatlan shellfish are somehow meatier and sweeter, rather than snappy and blandish like the associated rest. Of course, masterful sauces only elevate these properties such as Camarones Borrachos where the emulsified sauce is elaborated with a couple dashes of some Tequilita, even the basic ground pepper preparation en pimienta conjured deep feelings of swoon.

A couple of months back, they had unveiled a couple of new tricks up their sleeve:


Albondigas De Camaron: Shrimp Meatball Soup

A seafood rendition of the Mexican soup meal classic of Albondigas, the rustic broth is loaded with celery, carrots and aromatic of shrimp shells. A pleasant sting is courtesy of ground Jalapeños, tomatoes and cilantro. The shrimp-only meatball's are bound only by egg yolks and nothing more, which results in a firm, snappy bite.

Taco unveilings always excite me, here, the shrimp and fish varieties were decent if I hadn't been spoiled by the ones we had in our Taco Task Force: Fish Taco Edition, a different style here with a thin breading, thinly shredded cabbage and a homemade 1000 dressing.


Fish Taco: Love Me That Mayonnaise

The taco to behold here was the Taco Gobernador, fire grilled satchels of joy filled with chopped shrimp, sauteed onions and oozy Monterey Jack cheese.


Tacos Gobernador: To Govern The Rest

More soups that were showcased included a a nuanced Halibut soup filled with bone and skin on hunks of fresh, meaty Halibut.


"Soup Is Good Food"-The Dead Kennedys

A Mixta brought forth more of that on shrimp, this time head on though, along with chewy octopus and more of that thick cut whole halibut. The broth here was also tomato based but without the Jalapeño heat.


See Food, Lotsa Seafood

But all this only digresses from what I think is the restaurant's real star, the Pescado Zarandeado.


The Sneaky Snook Effect: Zarandeado

The Robalo (Snook) Fish is also some "the goods" that Magdalena sneaks in, and when rubbed with Sergio's emulsified fruits of labor, tis' like no other fish in town. Soy sauce, mayonnaise, chilies, Maggi Sauce, Salsa Inglesa (Worcestershire Sauce) and sauteed onions blended into a alternate reality of Umami. Its an ugly fish and skinny at that, with a Piranha-like stare, but looks aren't everything; an unparalleled, committed flavor is priceless nowadays.


Paloma en Jarrito

A Paloma (Mexican Squirt, Rock Salt, Grapefruit, Tequila) is Mexico's unofficial national cocktail, after one sip you can't stop (literally, salt only makes your thirsty for more!) And here, its served virgin and with the dirt taste notes of a Jarrito De Artesania, a handmade clay pot found commonly around Mexico in county fairs and events.

Snook and Tequila, the good things in life.


Mariscos Chente
4532 S. Centinela(at Gilmore)
Mar Vista, CA 90066
310-390-9241

also in Inglewood
10020 Inglewood Ave
Inglewood CA 90304
No Pescado zarandeado at the Inglewood location and different chef.

Chichen Itza's Mayan Tasting Dinner On An Anxious Friday Night

So Friday night had finally come, one of the rare moments in my life where I actually get the urge to go out and be young. Meaning, just hanging with old high school friends (people my age in other words) and catching each others facetious gay bluffs, usually involving a local backyard punk gig, a pint or two of cheap beer, and the ever high hopes of suddenly "getting lucky". NOT thinking about writing or food but instead just living the moment...


City Terrace Gig w/ Corrupted Youth: December 2010


Catching That Bluff After One Too Many Brewskies

This last Friday though was and exception. My food world had cut into my leisure time through a dinner invite from a Roosevelt High School teacher who I had given a guest lecture on the concept of Foodblogging. He had told me about a "Mayan Tasting" dinner that was happening at Chichen Itza that night and asked if I was interested. I said yes, but only to find out that one of my o.g homie's two-tone reggae band was playing at the San Pedro Brewery that same night, meaning FREE craft beer and not-typical-scene chicks.

But anything for the sake of expanding my palate right?

We had barely made it too, half an hour late, meaning half an hour beyond their closing time and being the last customers of the night. A huge thank you for still feeding us!

It was to be an eight course dinner highlighting tribal Food from the South of Mexico before Spanish Rule--


Agua De Chaya: My Food Opt In For Beer

An Agua Fresca De Chaya was included in the dinner, a "medicinal herb" kinda like Spinach but with a heftier bite was apparent through out the meal. Here, it was blended with sugar and acted as a refresher.

1st

Bu'ul, I'b and Sikil Pac: Mayan Chips N Dip

Shaved, Green Plantain pieces were fried and served as chips to go with our black and white bean purees, both smooth and creamy. The table favorite was the Sikil Pac (middle) though, a chunky puree of toasted pumpkin seeds and tomatoes.

2nd

Pumpkin, Green Corn and Tomato Empanada: Fried

No cheese to be found in here as there were no domesticated cows back then, instead a small amount of filling consisted of seasoned squash melded with starchier than thou corn. Liked the fried little edges of Masa the best of course...

3rd

Jicama Salad: Like A Frutero Doing Fine Dining

Up next was a dainty, composed salad of cutely shaped Jicama, Mango and Piña (Pineapple). Nothing much to be said here, tasted like a portion controlled, Fruta Mixta order you would get from a Mexican fruit vendor from any given East L.A corner...that's all here.

4th

Duo of Tamales: Barely Warm Espelon and Chaya Variety

These duo of dense, Tamales were served just a couple of degrees above stone cold, not sure if that was on purpose. Espelon was described as a "traditional Mayan Bean" and had very similar qualities to a dried out Japanese Adzuki bean. Chaya prevailed as always with its faint, herbaceous notes.

5th

Sopa De Chaya: Umami or Salty?

The soup course was also Chaya centered, along with a couple of properly cooked Chayote, the leaf's meatier qualities were more noticeable here, the teacher compared it to Wakame seaweed actually. The broth packed a fiercely savory punch, didn't know whether to classify it as salty or just umami.

6th

Pipian De Venado: Or Liver?

We were given an option from choosing two from four options as our mains. Seeing Venison on the menu made me full of glee as I love game but don't get to eat it often. Although it was kind of hard to treasure it here, cooked to a point where it tasted portrayed a liver-like flavor and mealy texture. Good thing the delicate sauce was there to rescue it a bit.

7th

Pato Pibil: Sauce To The Rescue!

Excited to see the Pibil preparation applied on other meats, I jumped at getting the Duck version of the Yucatan infamous Cochinita Pibil. Wrapped in Banana leaves and baked, this protein also seemed to be cooked beyond recognition, including the bland black bean/rice mash up underneath. Albeit, that glorious, zippy sauce salvaged this dish yet again!

The one thing that truly did blow me away was something that I--of course--didn't get: Tikin Xic (Fire Grilled Grouper Fish).


Tikin Xic: The ONE Day I Wasn't Craving SeaFood

The last course was a dessert of Buñuelos De Yuca, Fritters made from the starchy Cassava root vegetable, drizzled with Honey and served with a shot of Milk-less Hot Chocolate.


Buñuelos De Yuca: Mayan Beignets?

Dense, heavy and ever chewy, these were definitely no Beignets. Reminded me of dessert version of the Brazilian pão de queijo. The milk-less Hot Chocolate shot over-compensated with more sweetener in it, tasted a little to single note to be just sugar though, maybe Agave? Nonetheless, I dunked and enjoyed.

I really appreciate the concept that they are aiming for with this tasting, as I recently went back to my parents Zacatecano hometown and discovered my food roots.

But next time, I think I'll rather go skank it up in the pit with the homies while drinking a double chocolate Porter...



*Price $35 per person. Tax and gratuity not included.
*Reservation Only
*Tasting will take place again in the next couple of weeks sometime, give them a call if interested

3655 S Grand Ave #C6
Los Angeles, CA 90007
tel 213.741.1075
fax 213.741.1046

Free Parking

Saveur Office Staff Meal: So THAT'S How They Roll...

I finally got the chance to meet and greet with some of the friendly staff over at Saveur last night. It still seems ethereal to me to think that I worked as a fixer and gatherer for the upcoming March L.A issue as a whole, driving Mr. Oseland around South L.A in my dad's jerry-built, 93, stick-shift Saturn, scavenging Southern, super exotic Mexican Herbs for herb photo glossary...not to mention having two featured pieces printed.

My nervousness only grew as the numbers on the buildings on West 32nd street kept getting smaller. I had took a train that required me to walk a little bit longer...on purpose. To no avail with my freakishly lengthy legs, I was there: 15 East 32nd Street. 1st floor, 2nd floor...then there it was.


Still In Awe

I don't know why I was nervous, just added on to the entire 'overwhelming' feeling of NY as a whole. Was relieving to see that they were expecting me though...


Test Kitchen: A Cupboard The Size of A Small Library


Dining Area

I had dropped in just in time for their Mardi Gras themed dinner. They were busy, stressed and tired as they were just closing an issue but like Luciano Pavarotti said in his book, My Own Story:

"One of the very nicest things about life is the way we must regularly stop whatever it is we are doing and devote our attention to eating."


Ben Mims Cooking Up A Saveur Storm

Ben Mims had just finished frying up some shrimps and oysters, to be the centerpiece of the dinner. Po' Boys here included just baked, dense french rolls, a freshly mixed tart and creamy Remoulade Sauce, juicy, sweet tomatoes still on the vine (even in the dead of Winter!) and an Ambrosia salad, with a toasted coconut topping.


The Saveur Fixins!

And when offered delicious bounty, the Glutster always has his way...


Glutster Po' Boy

My bread accentuated, SAUCED po' boy was a mixture of both crisp shelled, tender oysters and shrimps, with minimal veggies to get in the way amd more sauce to soften up the dry bread--

Their dessert choice of the night was nothing short but ridiculously awesome...of course. A Mardi Gras Kings Cake, a celebratory treat standard down south around this time of year. Usually more on the dry side of cakes with a jam filling, sugar and dried fruit topping, the version here was fluffy, with a cream cheese and brown sugar filling spilling out and caramelized with crunchy, multi-color icing. Ben described it to me as "basically a cinnamon roll, but shaped differently and extra decadent!"


Extra Decadent Mardi Gras Kings Cake: Overflowing With a Cream Cheese-Maple-Brown Sugar Filling

Just like a Mexican Rosca De Reyes, a jesus doll is baked in somewhere in the reef shaped roll, and it is tradition to throw a party for whoever bites into it first! I overheard that a whole pecan was used here, but no party for me.


No Party For Me: Should Have Gotten Another Slice!

So That's How They Roll, huh?

I can definitely get used to this...

Molino Rojo Restaurant: Bronxite Approved Dominican Cuisine

Woke up mid day today to find myself tasting my first snowflake as I started my trek out into the powdery, frosty abyss towards the A train heading to Manhattan.


First Snow Day

As soon as I woke up and heard the soft sound of snow falling, I looked forward to it immensely, to go out, get lost in an uncharted snow ridden city and eat some hearty, NY-centric food.


The Bronx

Within an hour, I found myself on the complete other side of town. I ended up alongside Yankee Stadium, both the old and the new one. The snowflakes in The Bronx were thicker and fell with more force. Unlike L.A, my warm breath would linger high in the air as I breathed out, like the thick smoke of a Cuban Cigar. I was to meet a resident reader of mine who knew a thing or two about Dominican Republic food, she's been eating the stuff her whole life.


Knee Deep

Fortunately the place was right off the Yankee Stadium exit off the B-D-4 trains so not much walking was involved


Snowy Facade: El Molino Rojo

Walking in to the warm fluorescent heating bulbs, I will admit to being a little worried. As soon as we were seated, the menu bared spanish words that I'd never heard in my life before, what the hell was a Pionono?


Foreign Spanish

I was excited to finally try Dominican food since I haven't heard of any in L.A, Maybe tasting Sancocho, a Dominican namesake heavy stew with 23 + ingredients. But apparently they only made it on certain days, today they had made Guisado de Rabito, their version of Oxtail soup--decision was made, easy as that.

I was about to have my 2nd dinner in a couple of hours but couldn't help myself to trying a couple of new things.


Pastel en Hoja: Dominican Tamales?

It arrived to the table in less than two minutes, already unwrapped. At first taste, well cooked starches of all backgrounds filled my mouth: green plantains, Yucca Chunks, mature Squash, a Taro-like Yautia vegetable, Garbanzo, Pinto Beans. All enveloping chunks of pork butt with 1/4 inch of skin still on. The texture was more like a homecooked Oaxacan Tamale, polenta like. Each bite shimmered with fat but the taste was an acquired one.


Morcilla: Mmmm...Pigs Blood

Along with many other offal's standard in the Dominican diet, my Bronx docent insisted that we get the Morcilla, a mealy textured, metallic tasting sausage of pork blood, onions and broken rice.


Guisado de Rabito: Que Sazon!

The main dish had landed. Braised Oxtail in all its gelatinous joy, cooked with that signature savoriness known as Sazon, a Dominican flavor blend of spices and herbs applied to foods to give it a certain oomph effect. It was not the most tender I've had.


Squashed Rolls: All The Better to Sop You With!

The bread that was served was squashed, or 'pressed', making it all the better to sop up all that lustrous oxtail juice!

Arroz Con Gandules: All The Better to Eat You With!

The order comes with either steamed white rice or Arroz Amarillo (Yellow Rice), short-grain rice fried with a different variety of Sazon and Pigeon Peas, what I think the offspring will taste like if a lentil bean knocked up a pea. Its also served with Pinto Beans cooked with Pork Shoulder and more of that Sazon! Usually a side, my guest was surprised to see my Frijolero instincts lick the bowl clean first--

Tomorrow it was to be Soul Food in Harlem...

Food for two $13

Molino Rojo Restaurant
101 East 161st St.
Bronx, NY 10451
718-538-9642

Blue Ribbon Sushi Bar & Grill: My First Omakase

There is something to be said about visiting a city where your older brother lived at for seven years. It makes things a little bit less overwhelming to know that there are a few people around who are just a degree closer than a complete stranger. It also helps if those friends also happen to work at Blue Ribbon Sushi, one of the few New York established Sushi slinging counterparts of the Blue Ribbon restaurant family.


Blue Ribbon: Distinction

A newcomer to foodblogging scene, Teresa would be the girl to know in this unknown food megalopolis, my brother was right. After a couple of random FB messages, we had decided to go the Sushi and Grill outpost, one of their more snazzier joints located right in front of A train Columbus Circle stop, atop the 6 Hotel. Would of been optimal walking distance in the relentless blizzard outside, but of course, the train that I was in overheated and broke down one stop before. But for the meal that followed, I wouldn't of minded walking in the strongest of flurries all the way across town...

We started off with one of their Namazake's that still in their tasting room floor, Harushika Shiboribana.



Harushika Shiboribana: Bold

A Namazake is a certain type of "live" Sake that is only brewed seasonally and is not been heated past 65C, thus, 'unpasteurized'. Its usually drank in its younger state, and the taste is a little more brash and dry around the edges, kind of requiring of small sips only. However, this one proved to be quite fruity, nonetheless a little more viscous with an acquired thickness probably due to the umami content in the liquid itself. This one has not yet made it to the menu but there are four more in stock from the $9-$12 range.



After this, the chef had sent out a sample of his Amaebe Sashimi ($17.50), Maine Sweet Shrimp with a light Wasabi Yuzu. Delightfully creamy without the sinewy chew of raw shrimp I've had before, he fried the heads, whole and they served as decapitated crispy chips to go elevate the experience even more.


Ankimo: Foie Gras of The Sea?

Shortly after, a few generously thick, silver dollar sized slices of compounded monkfish offal known as Ankimo($13.75) showed up. Apparently, she 'always has to have it' every time she eats here, and I could see why. What Foie Gras would taste like if Trader Joes ever made a "reduced fat" seafood variety, I preferred the mild, liver-y luxuriousness of it actually. Maybe since the last time I was served the duck stuff , I was nearly induced to a lipid induced seizure with a full 2 oz of it...

After the fist dishes, I knew that if there was ever a time to splurge in my short stay in NYC...it was going to be here.

We had decided on the Sashimi-only Omakase; Toshi's Choice ($80 per person here)


Yaki Hama: Baked Oysters w/ Miso Butter

The Panko topping soaked in the butter and ponzu beautifully, nice buttery crunch to contrast the chewy oyster.

Then came what Teresa explained to be "very Blue Ribbon", two platters of artistically presented bounty:


Sashimi, Mushi and Karai of Ise Ebi: How Much Lobster Can You Handle?

In awe of the presentation, I dug right in the raw lobster flesh. The sinewy meat snaps at the slippery bite, almost like a tendon. A texture I am slowly getting used to as this is only the third time I have it. I enjoyed more the set rolls of the cooked stuff with the foundation of rice.

But I was then completely swooped off my feet with the presentation of their Omakase:


Behold: Blue Ribbon Omakase

From bottom to up:
Noresore--Baby Sea Eel (Shooter in a Ponzu Dashi; Kyushu, Japan)
Binnaga--Albacore (behind cup; Pacific Ocean)
Hotaru Ika--Reef Squid (Lemon Shell drizzled with Mustard ; Setouchi, Japan)
Oshinko--Assorted Pickles (Kyuri Cucumbers, Japanese Squash)
Masu--Tasmanian Sea Trout(Next to Cucumbers; Australia)
Chu Toro--Medium Fat Blue Fin Tuna Belly (Light Pink; Japan)
Shime Saba--Wild Mackarel (Silver Skinned, Crimson Meat; Kyushu, Japan)
Sujiko--Marinated Fresh Salmon Roe (House Cured w/ Soy; Canada)
Uni--Sea Urchin (Pacific Ocean)
Kamasu Sashimi--Torch Seared Barracuda (Last; Japan)

The soy sauce that is issued with the Sashimi is an aged one, as thick as blood and as dark as opaque paint; all the better to complement everything all these rich fishy's.


The Money Shot: Working The Angles Baby

Suffice to say, I was Omega-3'd the hell out and blown away by the distinctness amongst each fish, especially compared to recent Sushi expeditions. I know this because I was not able to plow through everything like I usually do, a new kind of richness I've never encountered before.

But we all know that there is ALWAYS room for dessert.


Ginger Bread Pudding w/ Butterscotch Sauce and Ginger Ice Cream

Another one of Teresa's "must haves", surprisingly light I must say.


Chocolate Bruno w/ Green Tea Ice Cream: My Finale

Reminiscing about it now, I think this is my first ever REAL sashimi experience ever and worth every single penny.

And, NO, this was not a fucken PR meal...

Blue Ribbon Sushi Bar & Grill
308 West 58th Street
New York, NY 10019
(212) 397-0404

www.blueribbonrestaurants.com

Otafuku: Let's Get Rid of New York

"Lets Get Rid Of New York"

- Randoms (Dangerhouse Compilation Album: 1977)

Don't know what came over me that Cyber Monday afternoon, Mattatouille had sent me a text first thing in the morning and told me that there was some great deals on Virgin America. So I did, with the rationalized excuse that I was going to check out NYU finally and decide whether I want to attend their Food Studies program or not...once and for all.

And now...I'm here.



Brooklyn Heights

Every time I step out of the tiny place I was fortunate to be able to stay at, I am hit with ten thousand piercing needles that is typical East Coast climate. Chilly L.A Winter twilights of 40-50 degrees definitely did not prepare me for this. All of my L.A Winter clothing that I have scarcely acquired over the years have only proven to be futile during those breezes that make me forget I have fingers and feet. Four layers, five layers of clothing...no difference to me.

I will not lie to feeling a little overwhelmed being in a new city, even if not long. Culture shock aside, the overwhelming masses of people brushing you left and right seem unescapable no matter where you are, the 2x priced public transit is not easy to grasp for a transit deprived born and raised Angeleno and the winds only seem to be getting stronger and colder.

Nonetheless, I came for food. And food is what I shall do.


Otafuku: Saves the Day

After getting snootily turned away from a tour at the NYU Welcoming offices, I still decided to check out the scattered campuses by my self. At the Stern building, I gawked at the tall, slender Asian goddesses as they scurried frantically to get to class, at the Tisch School of the Arts, I compared the Hipster look to that of L.A, slightly more formidably colorful I must say. But at the Steinhardt campus I ate Japanese griddled deliciousness.


Standing Room Only

My first restaurant meal in the city was take out from Otafuku, a tucked up Takoyaki dispensary right in front of campus. Chiquito pero picoso!, this two by four take out only place slanged one of the best lunches I've had in my life. All they have on the menu is Takoyaki, Okonomiyaki and Yakisoba, more than plenty when it comes to quality, taste and portion.


Combo C Is All I Need: Takoyaki and Squid Okonomiyaki

Maybe it was the fact that I have had always wanted to try Takoyaki since the first time I saw a weird video of it on Mikey Hates Everything blog, or maybe it was just that I hadn't had breakfast today, or maybe it was the simple fact that it was only $9. Whatever it is, these savory griddle cakes were LOADED with the tasty Japanese street lipids of Mayonnaise, wide flaked Bonito flakes, powdered Nori, Ichimi Togarashi(Japanese Chili Powder) and that sweet, umami intensive Takoyaki sauce.

Like a pancake sphere with the tender gift of a chunk of octopus in the middle, I relished alternating the donut hole-like Takoyaki with the crispy edged, thick Okonimayaki filled with shredded cabbage, spicy ginger and several pieces of chewy squid.

Maybe New York isn't so bad after all, although I certainly held it up to L.A standards last time I was here...

My Earlier NY Posts.

My First Night in NY: Pizza Epiphamy and GOOD Vegan (Lombardi's and Teany)

Glutster goes To N.Y!!!

Night In N.Y: Dabbling with Dumplings and Truly Living the Good Life

3rd and Last Day in N.Y.: Not-Your-Average Lunch at the C.I.A. (no not "C.I.A.", The Culinary Institute of America

Otafuku
236 East 9th Street
New York, NY
10003-7503
(212) 353-8503
Open Weekdays 1pm-10pm; Weekends 11am-10pm