UPCOMING BAD ASS WEEKEND ALERT: The Taste Of Mexico Association Presents "200 Years of Mexico's Cuisine" Food Event

What better way to celebrate "Traditional Mexican Cuisine" finally becoming "a cultural treasure"

Since I didn't wake early enough to catch yesterday's press conference about the upcoming 200 Years Of Mexico Cuisine event (first "after-hours" experience at Koreatown; ugh), here are the details on L.A's first event celebrating regional Mexican food for a good cause.

(taken from press release)



WHAT: On Saturday, December 4, 2010, from 5–10 p.m., La Monarca Bakery—along with traditional Mexican restaurants Frida Mexican Cuisine, Guelaguetza, and La Casita Mexicana—will celebrate Mexican culinary and cultural history with the “200 Years of Mexico’s Cuisine” event, presented by The Taste of Mexico Association. The inaugural event—taking place at the Cathedral of Saint Vibiana in downtown Los Angeles—will offer attendees a taste of authentic Mexican specialties, including over 35 traditional dishes from varying regions throughout the country; premium tequila, beer, and mezcal tastings; Oaxacan dancing; a silent art auction and exhibit; and live Mexican music and mariachi band performances.



Ticketholders will have access to unlimited tastings from La Monarca Bakery, Frida Mexican Cuisine, Guelaguetza, and La Casita Mexicana. All participating restaurants are members of The Taste of México Association, including the organization’s president and La Monarca Bakery owner Ricardo Cervantes. Attendees may purchase tickets in advance at any participating restaurant or via The Taste of Mexico website. A portion of the event’s proceeds will benefit Heal the Bay, an environmental nonprofit organization dedicated to making Southern California coastal waters and watersheds, including Santa Monica Bay, safe, healthy, and clean.



WHEN: Saturday, December 4, 2010 | From 5–10 p.m.



COST: Tickets are $75 in advance and $100 at the door

Tickets can be purchased at www.thetasteofmexico.org and at all participating restaurants



WHERE: Cathedral of Saint Vibiana

214 S. Main St.

Los Angeles, CA 90012



ABOUT LA

MONARCA

BAKERY: Offering traditional Mexican breads, cookies, pastries, and cakes made from scratch daily, La Monarca Bakery provides an authentic panaderia experience utilizing the flavors and ingredients of Mexico. Founded in 2006 by partners Ricardo Cervantes and Alfredo Livas, La Monarca Bakery is named for the monarch butterfly, whose annual migration between the U.S. and Mexico symbolizes the bakery’s bridging of cultures with its traditional Mexican baked goods. La Monarca Bakery has three locations in greater Los Angeles—Huntington Park, East LA, and its newest outpost in Santa Monica. La Monarca Bakery is open 7 a.m.–9 p.m. daily, with baking beginning at 4 a.m. and continuing throughout the day. La Monarca Bakery is also on Facebook and Twitter.



ABOUT THE

TASTE OF

MEXICO: The Taste of Mexico Association was founded by a select group of respected Mexican restaurateurs with businesses in Los Angeles, each dedicated to enhancing and promoting the authentic ingredients, flavors, and traditions of Mexico’s cuisine. The association is currently comprised of business owners and chefs from La Monarca Bakery, La Casita Mexicana, Frida Mexican Cuisine, and Guelaguetza Restaurant. All founding members are natives of Mexico and are committed to using only authentic Mexican recipes, developed and prepared by chefs well-versed in the flavors and traditions of Mexico. For more information, please visit www.thetasteofmexico.org.




Looks like I'll be covering this event for LAist so hay nos vimos!

Not Selling Out...Just Want To Keep The Glutster Running: CityDeals (Going Half-ers With Profit Split!)

The graceful realities of life have been kicking my ass lately. But 5 years later, I am still blogging my heart out about good ol' food/drink and still running the occasional late yellow light on my Vespa (maybe not two in the same week anymore though; I fought the law and I lost, ha ha).

I remain stubborn in my passion for food. I know one day, I will make a decent living off this. But until that magnificent day comes, I need to start hustling my shizz with whatever I have on hand now.

So here is the deal. A company called CityDeals hits me up a few times a week with whatever cool money saving deals are roaming around on their website. And the best part, they go half-ers with me (Well, supposedly, ha ha) with whatever you guys buy through my blog.





Most of what they offer is corporate junk stuff but there is no escaping it sometimes, admit it. And that is coming from a guy who would rather eat an apple and nuts at the market next to the fast food joint.

So click on link on top (hopefully I did everything right and it works!). There was a cool deal for IHOP breakfasts if your into that kinda thing. I used to, that's for sure, don't try to front. Oh yeah! And also, a deal on movie tickets for pinche Regal Cinemas.

Whatever, I could care less of what other people think. I have been blogging for five years and my loyal non-anonymous-commenting readers know that I'm down for my prose. It is just as strong as ever and like everyone keeps telling me..."this is just the beginning."

Yxta Cocina Mexicana: Ingredient-Driven Mexican In Downtown Los Angeles

I finally got a chance to try out Yxta Cocina Mexicana this last Friday. Leave it to a personal invitation from humble owner Jesse Gomez to get me to commit to going at long last.

I noticed the place since the first time I passed by it while aboard the "Commerce Center" 720 Rapid Bus...that was nearly two years ago!



Yxta On A Friday Night: Crackin'


The unassuming facade is right on the corner of 6th and Central. As if this mattered, this part of town is also negatively recognized as "skid row". I dropped by on the later end of the dinner service and the place was still fairly cracking. The patrons ranged from the young locals residing in the revamped barker block nearby to young latino professionals just out for a good taco.



La Ofrenda: By Zacatecano Artist Rafael Coronel


Walls were adorned with contemporary Mexican art and on the ceilings hung low rising, swank chandeliers. In the middle of the dining room stood an inviting communal table, "Its the only table we don't move...ever" says Jesse Gomez as we sat down. Jesse Angel Gomez was born into the Mexican restaurant way of life. His grandparents opened up the Highland Park Mexican family restaurant, El Arco Iris in 1964. And as a result, Yxta is in its very own class of Mexican restaurants, a rare style that takes its roots from nostalgic Americanized "combination" platter set ups but evolve into high quality reinterpreted favorites. The menu is mostly masa antojitos but it gathers from his favorite regions of Mexico for its execution.



Uno De Al Pastor Y Uno De Asada: Salmon Creek Farms Pork


The pork for the Al Pastor is cut off a rotating spit and it is sourced from Salmon Creek Farms, a notable purveyor of awesome swine. And it is bomb, with charred juicy tidbits of both quality swine and grilled pineapple. Layered atop a soft handmade corn tortilla, this taco is my favorite Al Pastor taco in L.A at the moment.



Albondigas De Pescado (Cod): Fridays Only


Since I first opened up their online menu, this soup was the first thing that caught my attention. Albondigas is basically a meatball soup, the consomme is a rustic one based on tomatoes, garlic, onion and cilantro. My mom only makes beef or chicken versions, so I was intrigued these were made from fish instead. And they were just like my mom's actually, down to eerie similarities of the al dente squash/carrots and thick body of the broth. The balls were tender and moist, unlike overcooked and snappy shrimp albondigas I've had at other Mexican places in town.



Tostada De Atun: Sashimi Grade Ahi Tuna, Fried Onions, Chipotle Lime Cream


Another favorite of the night was Yxta's take on the typical seafood topped Tostada. Here, he fried his own tortilla to a puffy thick disk, topped it with ruby red Sashimi grade Ahi Tuna, some battered onion rings and a rich but zesty chipotle-lime cream. Together this bite was a complex one that covered all bases in the textural contrast game.



Enchiladas: Could Hold Their Own Against The Mole Monopolies In Town


The chicken for his Enchiladas de Mole comes from Shelton Farms but I enjoyed his smooth black Mole better. It is superior than other places in town, thick, good portion, and not too sweet. Although, my favorite sauced down concoction was the Enchilada De Verduras, tortillas filled with fresh corn, spinach and mushrooms then sauced down with his very own Mole Amarillo that he makes on premise (just like the mole negro). The yellow Mole shines through with an ethereal balance of chiles gueros, yellow tomatoes, yellow squash, nutmeg, cinnamon and just a little that ubiquitous pepper known as the Habanero.



Rajas: Mexican Guilty Pleasure Equivalent Of Fettuccine Alfredo


Jesse insisted on a order of his famed Rajas, julienne strips of Poblano pepper cooked with cream and corn. Ayy Guey, he was right! His rendition was light, al dente and spicy.



Nopalitos: My Bread And Butter


The only thing I myself insisted on trying that night were his Nopalitos, the famed strips of cactus that make every kid from central Mexico big and strong. I grew up on the stuff and it is how I measure any Mexican restaurant. If your Nopales is good, the Glutster is all yours. Here it kept up with the rest of the bad ass onslaught, reminiscent of my mom's, they are cooked in red chile sauce and braised until tender, not slimy or sour. Jesse told me the recipe is actually from a cook he had a while back, the family was "from Chiapas" he said.



Fish Of The Day: Mahi-Mahi


We settled on trying at least one main course. I had heard about his daily fish of the day specials. Today it happened to be a fat piece of fresh Mahi-Mahi. The cut looked beautiful with pristine criss-cross grill marks. It tasted even prettier. A simple rub of cajun spices was all it had but it was enough, nothing to veer attention away from the moist and fresh medium flakes of flesh. Shaven spears of grilled Mexican calabacita (squash) were its pedestal, spaced like the hands of a clock and charred under high heat. The sides were not to be fucked with neither, including his own burnished onion-spiked rendition of the classic grilled corn snack dish, esquite and a refreshing heap of warm lime cilantro rice.



Capirotada: Mexican Bread Pudding A La Moda!


I was happy to see Capirotada on the menu. The seasonal, sticky-toffee like Mexican bread pudding is usually eaten only during lent but I was known to freeze my mom's capirotada to eat it year round. I no longer have to do that since they have it on the regular dessert menu here everyday. The version here is made with the sturdy torta-standard-issue Telera bread roll and again...tastes just like my moms! Packed with raisins and spices, the version here is made a la moda with a generous scoop of the frozen heaven known as Cinnamon Fosselman's Ice Cream. More like frozen butter with fresh ground cinnamon on it to be precise, the frozen spicy scoop tastes like licking the innards of cinnamon roll (I went to High School just a couple blocks away from Fosselmans so I am no novice to its decadent icy gospel).

All in all, Yxta is an invaluable addition to the few, the proud...the Los Angeles Quality-Ingredient-Driven Mexican Restaurant scene. Places where you can go eat and be ok the rest of the day. The best thing of all is that this place comes served as is, unpretentious, family run and drama free.

Provecho!

Yxta Cocina Mexicana
601 S. Central Avenue
Los Angeles, CA 90021
Tel: 213-596-5579


Restaurant Hours
Monday-Wednesday: 11:30am-9pm
Thursday-Friday: 11:30am-10pm
Saturday: 5pm-10pm
Sunday: closed

Yet Another Freaking Post About The Awesomeness of New Sugarfish (Downtown)

The irrefutable lyrics of the late straight edge punk band Minor Threat said it best: "We're not the first! I know we're not the last!'Cause I know we're all heading for that adult crash!"



Affordable Quality: Fish For All


Although in this case, I am talking about not being the first--or the last--to write about the pristine cuts of fish at the new Sugarfish in downtown. Google it and find out for yourself, almost all my fencing camaradas have already written about the place. And for good reason as I still think about the grand experience I had a couple of weeks ago.

I was invited to a media dinner and decided to take it up after a couple weeks of thinking about it. I will come clean and declare my love of all things seafood. But I will also come clean that recently I've been broke as a joke. So as my homies would say....fuuugg it eyy.

The reservation was for Friday at 8:30. And despite, the fact that it was at probably the most peak dining time of the week. I was quite surprised to know that Emanuele Massimini, the head manager of the joint, was going to sit with my older brother and I through out the meal. We both spoke vividly about sushi as he ordered the exact same thing as we did and ate everything we ate. "I eat this everyday, sometimes twice a day". It was obvious why the guy chose this profession.





We were asked how hungry we were and then I gave him the definition of GLUT-ster. Shortly after that, we were receiving the first dishes of the The Nozawa set meal, the biggest of the Omakase (chef's choice) menus.

The Nozawa consisted of:

A plate of Organic Edamame
Tuna Sashimi (Big Eye)
Albacore Sushi (2-pc)
Salmon Sushi (2-pc)
Snapper Sushi (2-pc)
Yellowtail Sushi (2-pc)
Halibut Sushi (2-pc)
Toro Hand Roll
Crab Hand Roll
“Daily Special” (2-pc)

I was pretty damn excited to try out the sushi of the famed studio city Sushi Nazi finally. When I asked Mr. Massimini about how his reputation became so, he replied "How would you feel if you got up every single day at 4 AM to pick fish and some guy pulls out his cellphone while you serve him your hard worked creation?!

Anyways, at first bite of the stuff I knew what he was talking about it.



Halibut Fin Sashimi: Sinewy Goodness


Man, what else can I say without reiterating what everyone has said about the buttery buttery and such? One thing I found interesting was his sushi rice which is served warm and "packed loosely", it had a faint Pilaf-like flavor to it.



Toro Hand Roll: Unfiltered Sake Of Course To Eat


Favorites of the night the delicate hand rolls lightly filled with Toro. We were instructed to eat these as fast as we could to preserve the high crunch quality of the premium nori seaweed they used. I did. Thanks Mr. Massimini for sacrificing your roll for my photo taking. He was happy that I was quick about it and luckily he is "still my friend", haha.

I vastly enjoyed every bite of everything that was served. I couldn't believe how soft and rich each and every cut of fish was. I must of needed less than an ounce of soy sauce through out the whole evening as most of the nigiri were already seasoned with whatever the chef thought was best to accompany it.

Being with my older brother who is responsible for my first ever experience with sushi actually (at Sushi Sakura on Westside). We basically ordered everything the whole menu after our set meal and STILL walked over to Drago Centro for some splendid dessert.

And now for the best part, yes I know my meal was hosted by them but even if it was not. The actual Nozawa omakase meal rings in at a astonishing $35-$38 for the whole freaking thing.

Using the Trader Joe's way (cutting out the middleman...man!) Sugarfish is making quality ultra-traditional sushi available to all, and dare I say it...an every day option? W

Well, "every day" is for many and one day for me hopefully, haha.

SUGARFISH Downtown Los Angeles
600 W 7th Street, Suite 150
( Corner of 7th & South Grand)
Los Angeles, CA 90017
Phone: 213 627-3000

Mon-Sat 11:30 am - 10 pm | Sun 12 pm - 9 pm

D.I.Y Kimchi: A Crash Course With Chef EJ Jeong of Cham Korean Bistro

Do It Yourself!: Kimchi
Skeptical Youth sang..."I'm not to be the same 'ol Street Punk!"

And one of those indispensable ethics is the is the fundamental punk ethic of D.I.Y... Do-It-Yourself!

And this last Thursday, I was able to abide by that ethic as I was invited to make my own kimchi! By ways of a workshop hosted by Pasadena's Cham Bistro, I was taught the salty ways of Korea's revered staple food.



I Learn With My Hands


The workshop took place at the jointly owned !iT Jeans Factory aka. their kitchen headquarters in the industrial City Of Vernon. Other kimchi students included pastry chef Jashmine Corpuz, Gastronmy Blog, Deep End Dining, E*StarLA, Harriet Ellis of KCRW and Eastside Food Bites



You Can't Learn On An Empty Stomach!: Roasted Kale, Assorted Tofu Skin Pouches & A Seared Tuna Pop


Some pre-class snacks included some of their popular tofu pockets. Tofu pounded thin, fried and then brined with sweet vinegar encased rice topped with things like sweet seaweed, mulched Salmon and my favorite...kimchi topped with crispy candied anchovies. The roasted kale had a dangerously addicting salty junk food like thing about it, Jashmine Corpus swore it was fried, albeit salty as all hell--I wanted to eat more kale but couldn't due to its excessive saltiness.



Makgeolli 'Cham-tail': Pineapple, Agave Syrup, Sprite


But all the better to quench my thirst with their exclusive 'Cham-Tail' of the unfiltered rice wine goodness known as Magkeolli. It was mixed with pineapple, agave and sprite here. I found it a bit too sweet to my liking but fuuug it, still pounded it since it went well with the salty food to come.



Chef Professor EJ Jeong: Showing Us What's Up With Kimchi


I was in the first group up and stood fascinated at the intricate process of making this salty vegetable staple. I dunked and layered my kimchi with the chili rub as best as I can but it still did not compare to other peoples slathering skills....



Pre Mixed Kimchi Marinade


At the end of the crash course, we were treated to an ultra traditional plate bo saam which consisted of slices of braised pork shoulder, salted napa cabbage, sesame leaves, fermented chili paste, radish kimchi teeny tiny but salty as hell shrimp and a raw oyster.



A Meal For All Our Hard Work!: Bo Saam


I had underestimated those tiny raw shrimps as I slathered them on my makeshift sesame leaf taco. Apparently you are only supposed to use one or two, and then with that salted napa cabbage, salted fermented chili paste and oyster? By the end of the class I had imbibed at least 5 cups of water!



Persimmon Kimchi: Korean Equivalent of Mexican Chile Dried Mangoes?


Just when I thought I couldn't take anymore salt, they brought out some house made Persimmon Kimchi. I had never even heard of this but relished in the sweet, spicy and salty flavor of it. The pickling had rendered them slightly softer than their crispy pre-pickling texture so they were ultimately softer and just the right texture for me, no crisp nectarines or persimmons for me thank you very much! The recipe for these is the same as the following recipe for cabbage kimchi, the only difference is the removal of chopped shrimp.

Anyways, it was a pretty rad experience and I am eagerly waiting to pop open my jar of kimchi as soon as the recommended 20 days are over (14 days left!).

They are going to be hosting another kimchi workshop this Saturday for all you Kimchi curious readers out there.

Making Kimchi with Chef EJ Jeong

Saturday, November 20 from 11:30 AM to 2:30 PM

Cham Bistro R&D Kitchen (5251 S. Santa Fe Avenue, Vernon, CA 90058)

COST: $40 per person (Includes Korean tapas, a cocktail, and kimchi to take home.)

RSVP: Email kimchievent@chamkoreanbistro.com. Space is limited to 20 people.

Nonetheless, here is the recipe!

Chef EJ Jeong's Kimchi Recipe
Tong Baechu Kimchi (Whole Napa Cabbage Kimchi)

1. Wilting The Napa Cabbage

2 heads Napa cabbage
2 cups sea salt
8 cups water

Preparation And Procedure:
Trim the cabbage by removing any brown leaves on the outer layers. Slice the center of the cabbage’s stem 2 inches deep. Put your thumbs in the slit and pull it apart to divide it into two.

Soak all cabbage leaves in salted water for about 20 minutes. 20 minutes later, sprinkle the other half of the salt between each of the thick part of the leaves.

Cut side of cabbage should face up while wilting in salted water.

You need to rotate the cabbage in the bottom part to the top part every 2 hours. It will take 5-6 hours.

When it is ready, wash 3 times. Please be gentle and tender.

2.Marinate Kimchi

* 1 cup sweet rice powder
* 5 cups water
* 1 cup coarse Taeyangcho red chili pepper powder
* 5 ounces garlic
* 10 ounces Asian pear, peeled and quartered
* 9 ounces onions, peeled and quartered
* 1 ounce ginger, peeled
* 4 ounces Fresno chilies
* 2 pounds radish, julienned
* 4 ounces minari
* 4 ounces red mustard greens
* 4 ounces Korean chives
* 4 ounces green onions
* 1/4 cup Korean anchovy fish sauce
* 3/4 cup Korean salted shrimp sauce
* 4 ounces fresh shrimp, chopped
* 4 ounces Korean salted shrimp

Preparation And Procedure

Mix purified water with sweet rice powder, dissolving the powder until there are no lumps. Heat the water and rice powder mixture over the stovetop, stirring occasionally to prevent it from sticking to the bottom of the pot. When it starts to form bubbles, reduce the heat and stir continuously. Once the mixture becomes thicker and translucent, turn the heat off. The process from once the mixture is heated to when it becomes the correct consistency and color takes approximately ten minutes. Cool down completely.

Put onion, pear, garlic, fresno and onion in food processor, running the machine until they are minced. Add the produce to the porridge and along with the remaining ingredients, adding the shrimp sauce and anchovy sauce. Mix together.

Chef EJ Jeong’s Persimmon Kimchi Recipe

Ingredients
2 lb peeled persimmons
12 oz kimchi marinade

Kimchi Marinade
cup sweet rice powder
5 cups purified water
2 lb radish
4 oz minari
4 oz kat (red mustard)
4 oz Korean chives (thinner than Chinese chives)
5 oz garlic
10 oz Asian pear (peeled)
9 oz onion (peeled)
1 oz ginger (peeled)
1 cup Taeyangcho rd chili pepper powder (coarse)
1/4 cup anchovy fish sauce (Korean)
3/4 cup salted shrimp sauce (Korean)
4 oz fresno
4 oz green onion

Preparation And Procedure: How to Make Porridge

Mix puried water with sweet rice powder, dissolving the power until there are no lumps. Heat the water and rice powder mixture over the stovetop, stirring occasionally to prevent it from sticking to the bottom of the pot. When it starts to form bubbles, reduce heat and stir continuously. Once the mixture becomes thicker and is translucent, turn the heat off. The process from once the mixture is heated to when it becomes the correct consistency and color takes approximately ten minutes. Cool down completely.

Mix Together. Enjoy!

Thanks to chef EJ, Ricardo, Kimmy of Cham Korean Bistro and Kat for hosting an awesome event.

'Tis The Season!: Drago Centro's New Fall Desserts

After 5 years of eating my ass off and writing about some of it, not just any mishmash of sugar and butter will make me close my eyes in tasty euphoria anymore. As if it wasn't hardcore enough to hail from a family of dedicated Pan Dulce and Chocolate enthusiasts, these last 8 months have particularly swayed me to sweet side of life.

Aside from the conventional "too sweet" component of desserts. Its the subtleties of these venerated acts organized decadence that have recently been brought to my attention. Taking into account things like the philosophy of it. What is the logic of the chosen ingredients? What is the reasoning of their processing choice?

And it is through this deeper meditations on our dearly loved sweet endings to meals that my affinity for fine dessert is all the more tenacious.



Spiced Hot Chocolate With Black Truffle Foam: By Jashmine Corpuz


So the elusive "O.M.G-Swooooon" dessert moment came to me yesterday at the bar of Drago Centro.

Just when I was beginning to wonder if I would ever experience it again. Leave it to the crafty ways of Pastry Chef Jashmine Corpuz to sweep me off my feet yet again with her refined execution of dessert and its ceaseless transience through the seasons.

It was a nippy night in downtown L.A and in front of me lay a pee-wee sized teacup filled with "Spiced Hot Chocolate with Truffle Foam" as Jashmine described it. My mouth nearly dropped in disbelief upon my latino form of clarification by reiterating the same phrase twice to confirm things ie. "truffle, truffle?!?!"

I took it upon my nose for sensual investigation and immediately felt like one of those cartoons where the character was being reeled in by the the nearby delicious aroma (in the shape of a hand!).

At first sip, I was hypnotized. I don't even think cloud 9 could have been as pleasurable as this lightly speckled tantalizing whip of treasured fungi. Upon deeper gulp, you would get the two layers of 7-Spice Chocolate. First the thin and milky part than the the stuff that dreams are made of...the thick bottom where everything would settle. Cardamon, cinnamon, green peppercorn were the only ones I was able to discern since they were pretty damn balanced with each other. It had been a while since my last "epiphany" food moment and I had missed the feeling dearly. I bathed in the textural contrast and sweet and savory interplays of it all and did a better job cleaning the tiny teacup than the most joshing of dishwashers would had done.

But I digress, this was only a special amuse for the things to come.



Coppa: Italian For Sundae! Well, Kinda...


She sent out her very own superlative rendition of that classic Italian dessert known as the Coppa. For the international dessert chumps out there, its kind of like an Italian version of a Sundae...made with Gelato of course!

Her version payed sincere homage to the gusty winds and earlier sunsets by way of the delicate slices of poached persimmon that sat along with creamy, Brown Butter Gelato, Brown Sugar Caramel, a crispy Pepita brittle and her very own Pumpkin Bread that she bakes herself from nearby Scarborough Farms Pumpkins



Pine Nut Crostata: Fried Rosemary, Goat Cheese Gelato, Prosecco-Pear Puree


It was a night of sweet awesomeness as she followed it up with a Pine Nut Crostata that was what a Pecan Pie would end up like if it took a vacation to Europe. The pine nuts were glazed and the crust dangerously flaky. The light goat cheese gelato just hinted of its goatiness. The pears were ripe and heightened with the crisp prosecco. And keeping true to her signature savory touch, a couple of sprigs of fried rosemary added its redolent crisp!

Taking the time to eat these edible sweet descriptions of the changing seasons, I was pleasantly reminded that 'tis the season! Turkey, spice and now...desserts just as nice!

Drago Centro
525 South Flower Street
Los Angeles, CA 90071-2200
(213) 228-8998

Desserts $9

Do The Popup! Gary Robins At Georgio's Cucina

My weekly fencing club has become a sanctuary for me. For the last 4 semesters, not even the most snazziest of dinners, the most crackin of parties or free boozing of gigs would pull me away from the electric epee strip at Pasadena City College Its kinda the only form of exercise I get first of all but moreover, its just simply awesome.

But this last Friday for the first time ever...I cut it short.



North Hollywood On A Friday Night: Busting The Trafficky Mission


I had succumbed to the homie Eddie Hah and his invitation to go eat at this pop up in Studio City of this "3 Star, James Beard Nominee {chef] man!". The eager Eddie said he was "willing to drop four bills tonight".

I should say that this "guy" Eddie was talking about was actually the 3 star rated-- James Beard Award nominated--Chef Gary Robin's, formerly of the Russian Tea Room and the Biltmore Room, some pretty prestigious east coast joints back in their heyday.



Some Olives And Some Wine


We were greeted with a small platter of assorted house-brined olives, cakey wedges of 12 month Parmigiano-Reggiano. and a skinny glass ofLambrusco, a sweet sparkling wine. Our tables were almost ready.

I liked the feel of the place, felt cozy and romantic with mahogany tables and this bookshelf divider that gave it a real home-y feeling...too bad I was here with two other dudes.



The Scene At Georgio's


Apparently Eddie was not messing around, he ordered 85% of the menu immediately upon sitting (excluding all [filling!] flat breads).



Baccala Croquettes ($9): Starting Off With The Fried Stuff First Of Course!


The first thing that landed on our table were the Baccala Croquettes with this gushy Paprika Aioli and house pickled veggies. The little salt cod fritters were bomb, moist and creamy on the inside with a crispy sheen of rough cut golden brown bread crumbs that were all the better for dipping into the dangerously thick smoky Aioli. The veggies did their counteracting texture and tangy flavor thang.

Then came my favorite part of the meal.



Capesante: sea scallops with basil, pomegranate, toasted hazelnuts ($13)




Hamachi, serrano chili with Oro blanco grapefruit, ginger, crisp shallots $13





Thai Snapper Japanese horseradish, yuzu, green apple ($13)


My affinity for raw fish has really evolved from my opaque red Ahi tuna days. Crudo being a sort of Italian take on prepared sashimi, I chewed with careful attention to detail. And what can I say for his preparations other than dayum! The scallops being my personal favorite with its sweet and creamy flesh, simply lucid with the crunch of toasted hazelnuts and tartness of crimson red pomegranate seeds. The soft Hamachi was a fine balancing act with the fried goodness of crispy shallots and bitter grapefruit. And that sinewy red snapper gave into submission under the acids of yuzu and crisp green apple.

Now for the small dishes.



Duck Polpette (meatballs): soft polenta, rosemary marsala, sweet and sour cherries ($12)


Starting off with my favorite, the duck meatballs! They were suggested for us by three people that night at multiple times. And at first bite, I knew why. They were incredibly juicy and moist with a peppery, "cured salami" like flavor. I wonder if it is because they are made with foie gras as well?




Grilled Mediterranean Octopus: braised in white wine with cranberry bean, potato
salad and black olive vinaigrette ($15)


Yet another item that was recommended multiple times through out the night. Every one swore they were simply amazing and the most tender octopus they had ever eaten. And it was, not rubbery in the least. A winner with its light char marks and smoky finish.



Eggplant Agri dolce: roasted Japanese eggplant, green olive walnut
tapenade, aged balsamic vinegar $11


I wanted to like this one so bad but it ultimately proved to be just ok in flavor. The ends of the eggplant were still a tad undercooked, meaning tough and stringy. Not to say I didn't devour it still. My favorite part was the tapeanade, the dish's saving grace with its chunky texture and nutty, briny counterpoint to the mealy eggplant.



Funghi e Spinaci: sheeps milk ricotta, toasted pinenuts, sweet onions seared porcini ($15)


An unlikely favorite for the the dudes and I ended up being the thin and crispy rectangular flatbreads. All of of us giggled to realize that the crust was if not better than just as good as Mozza's. As if the flavor combination of toasted pinenuts and meaty mushrooms wasn't enough, I was really into the sweet and salty synergy flavor from the salty sheeps milk ricotta and sweet onions.



Pumpkin Gnocchi: black trumpet mushrooms, pancetta, tuscan kale, brown butter ($19)


By the primi section of the feast, I was still feeling good. Albeit all the dishes were pasta, I still dove in like if it was my first dish. My favorite of the ones we got were the pillowy soft pumpkin gnocchi. Rich as all hell but pretty much would break down on their own as they just dissolved in your mouth.



Mediterranean Orata: ligurian olive oil, garden beans, and lentil tomato salad ($33)


When it came to the secondi course of the meal, I was still a trooper and ate the set dishes with gusto. My favorite was the roasted Mediterranean sea bream aka Orata. Quite the presentation with the tableside carving and everything although I personally would had liked to pick and gnaw at the fish, there was still so much more meat! ha ha. The delicate white flesh was small flaked and moist, the best part being the salty, crispy skin of course!



Fennel Pollen Dusted Seared Big Eye Tuna : ricotta gnocchi, baby artichoke, red wine jus ($30)


At savory last (and I think the least!) was this plate of seared tuna. This was my first experience with that elusive food pixie dust known as fennel pollen and enjoyed its effect on the pristine quality fish. Although the texture wasn't as dreamy as I thought it would be, the lean fish was tasty. It was evident that the chef "woke up at 5 AM everyday" to go the fish market. I don't know about the dainty sides though.



Ahh, What The Hell...Let's Just Get All The Desserts Too!


By this point, we had eaten our way to a hedonist imposed delirium, a time in space when calories and satiation didn't matter. We were the last ones in the dining room and were surprised with a little dish of all the desserts they had to offer. The Olive Oil Polenta Cake and Pumpkin Crostata were the ones that I could still pleasurably eat. The olive oil cake with its substantial, cornbread-like texture burst with olive oil at every bite while the custard part of pumpkin was smooth, spicy and just stellar.

I really dug chef Gary Robins approach to California Cuisine, I liked his light adaptations of the seafood slanted menu, I liked how he stayed true to the renowned Italian concept of tasty simplicity, his style through out every dish. By the end of the night, this was just as good as having a conversation with him the guy.

Georgio's Cucina

(818) 985-1072

11992 Ventura Blvd
Studio City, CA 91604

Tuesday–Thursday, 5:30–10:30 PM; Friday–Saturday, 5:30–11:30 PM

*Gary Robins Will Be At Georgio's Until The End Of The Year